Have any of you noticed that in some of my reviews I sound … insane? Or possibly like there are several of me, and depending on which personality is blogging you get anything ranging from Prrfume Grrrl to Miffy McSnob? Another blogger once did a post where she aped our review styles, and it´s both funny and a little painful to see. Anyhoodle (prrfume grrl!) I´m going to try to tighten it up a bit. I know, and good luck with that.
We all got samples of Andy Tauer´s new Une rose chyprée at Scent Bar on Saturday; some of you lucky readers had already received samples during his advent giveaway late last year. To use some technical perfume jargon: squeeeeeeeeeee!!!! Totally swoon-worthy. I agree with Tom that it´s likely to be a big hit. Like everyone else´s line, some of Andy´s scents are easier to love than others. Une rose chyprée has the radiance of scents like Orris and Incense rosé while embracing a more traditional style of perfumery. For those of you who´ve maybe liked Tauer in theory but think, dude, I can’t wear creosote, you might want to give this a whirl.
I asked Andy if there´s some sort of base or signature he uses in some of his scents, as I detect a unifying theme running from this through Orris and the Rosé. He says: “The signature thing. A truly interesting question. I do not have a set of compounds that you would find in every fragrance of my line. Well, maybe there is this Orris-root line combined with a woody-ambergris interpretation that you find in most of my fragrances. Not if you look at a formula, but if you look at how the fragrance manifests itself. Yes, this probably is one aspect.” Which is Andy´s elegant way of saying what I feel: while maybe there´s nothing like the Guerlain or Caron base afoot here, people who already like his fragrances will find again in Une rose chyprée his striking trick of working airiness and radiance into a scent that is still a relative powerhouse.
According to Tauer, Une rose chyprée is an oriental rose on a chypre base. It is built around two natural extracts from rosa damascena, the absolute and the steam distilled essential oil. Other notes are, bergamot, lemon, clementine, green Bourbon geranium oil, bay, cinnamon, labdanum, orris, oak moss, patchouli, vetiver and vanilla.
At first sniff it´s almost girly, a tad sweeter than Incense rosé and faintly edible for reasons unclear to me. (On the other hand: it smelled tremendous on Tom, so don´t let me scare you menfolk off. When we met him the next day our first question was, what gorgeous thing are you wearing?!?!) The citrus is a little soapy but not at all unpleasant. It goes through a phase where orris is relatively prominent, and I wonder whether this will be problematic for you who had trouble with his Orris LE. The geranium, herbs and spices at the heart are wonderful and the scent really opens up here in terms of sillage. It loses its sweetness and becomes rich, resinous and almost buttery in the drydown. This is easily the most elegant scent Tauer has done, but for all that it´s not stuffy. Nobody´s going to use the word “grandma.” Interestingly, for something driven by a lot of rose it´s not especially rose-y – more chypre, but soft. Less Mitsouko and more 31 Rue Cambon. However Andy does rose, he avoids that cough syrup/sour wine effect. The drydown is mossy and the vetiver and vanilla set each other off beautifully. It´s a little crisp and earthy without being dirty.
More good news from Andy: “With this rose, I start a new line within my line of fragrances, named Tauer Perfumes “mémorables”. Une rose chyprée is the first scent of a series of things to come. They will not be limited editions. All of them will either be eau de parfum or perfume concentration (Rose chyprée is eau de parfum), all of them come in the same size of 15 ml… a price tag in the US of about $65-70 is a reasonable guess. In my online shop I will sell it for around 55-60 Swiss Francs. In these recession times I do not want to charge too much. Launch will be somewhere in the coming months. I apologize for not being able to be more precise as I am still manufacturing all my fragrances here in Zurich, more or less by myself…”
Andy worked on the scent for about a year, you can find a link to his blog here. I´m delighted with Une rose chyprée, and thrilled to hear we have even more to look forward to.