Serge Lutens Boxeuses, I had been snurffling with anticipation since Denyse reviewed it a while back. A perfume named Boxer? That’s pretty all-in even for Mr. Lutens. But what does it take to live up to that name.
The open is promising, it’s classic Lutens, violet, spices, cedar, leather. Bundled up like some of his most iconic fragrances – Feminite du Bois and Bois de Violette and Cuir Mauresque/Daim blond – familiar, but not. Scented echoes of what you know so well and love. Like that old lover from your youth who wanders back in your life. The same, but not the same. You’ve both changed, grown, see life differently, with more compassion, the hard edges of your youth eased out by time and life. You see them with all the things that made them irresistible before, but there’s something else there that makes you think about them in completely different ways.
I am just a poor boy
Though my story’s seldom told
I have squandered my resistance
For a pocket full of mumbles such are promises
All lies and jests
Still a man hears what he wants to hear
And disregards the rest
The leather is subtle and hidden in Serge Lutens Boxeuses, curling itself under the violet leaves, full of plumminess that gets more abstract as time goes on. The leather stays soft while the other notes, and there are many of them, (list of notes? Oh, much too pedestrian, so much better for y’all to guess!) dance like gopis around Krishna – mad with desire.
I’ve always found Feminite du Bois and Bois de Violette sometimes too much to wear all day, and often the Serge leathers are just too leathery or strong. Serge Lutens Boxeuses is all the best of all of those, tempered, finely tuned, soft, but still hitting all your senses from all sides like the best of Lutens.
Really gorgeous stuff, I’m enchanted and reminded why I fell in love with Serge’s vision to begin with. So Gopi up, y’all, and drop a comment about whether you love or hate Serge’s spicy violettey, leathery, plummy original vision, wish he’d drop it forever or just keep playing with it until he plays its highest note. Or you can just talk about the gorgeous weather we’ve been having. I’ll give 3 people a sample of Serge Lutens Boxeuses from comments.