L’Artisan Traversée du Bosphore

I was sure – so very sure – that I would love Eau Duelle.  It had everything going for it, including Diptyque and the notes listed.  And yet I didn’t love it.  I wasn’t going to bother with L’Artisan Coeur de Vétiver Sacré because it’s … vetiver, right?  Then I found out it wasn’t really vetiver and my interest increased (while everyone else’s diminished.  I’m anticipating lots of bottles up for swap).

In the meantime I was going to punt L’Artisan Traversée du Bosphore entirely, because I was sure I’d loathe it.  Bertrand Duchaufour and I have a … murky relationship, as exemplified by Timbuktu and his Eau d’Italie oeuvre, although I loved Nuit de Tubéreuse.  But a fragrance embracing the gaggingly sweet confection of Turkish delight, as Bosphore is supposed to? That dampened my ardor right quick. Notes are apple, pomegranate, tulip, iris, leather, saffron, Turkish delight accord (rose, lemon, pistachio), vanilla, musks.

I threw it into the order cart anyway.  Then, one night, after I’d tried everything else … I glared at it awhile and then put some on.

Can we rewind for a second and shift our eyes up a few lines and look at that notes list again?  Apple, pomegranate, Turkish delight accord, vanilla?  Doesn’t that sound like instructions for a mulled alcoholic drink you’re going to be very sorry you consumed?  I kept imagining those notes floating on top of the Duchaufour old-vase-water miasma, and the thought was not encouraging.  But I like to suffer for my art, and now you are asking yourself, for the love of Pete, would you get to the point? Okay, I will.

The most striking thing initially is the transparency of the scent – anyone expecting a Serge-style riff on rahat loukoum is in for a surprise.  How you manage to add light, heat and lift to those top notes is beyond me, but I guess that’s why BD’s the man, right?  It’s sweet but not cloying, smooth but not dense, dry rather than powdery.  I sat there for five minutes, nose glued to my wrist (no doubt with a look of shock on my face).  The sweetness is joined to a slightly bitter leather note.  And there it stays, transparently sweet and faintly bitter, rose against saffron, fruit against leather, until it fades slowly away a few hours later.

I tried it on against Cuir de Lancome, really the only thing I could think of that it reminds me of.  Of course, side by side they seem far more different than similar.  Cuir’s definitely more powdery – it smells like the inside of a ladies’ leather handbag with some expensive cosmetics.  Bosphore’s a step in the gourmand direction without being “foody,” and fruit-ish without being fruit-y. Cuir is also one unified smell while Bosphore maintains two tracks – that bitter leather note versus the delicate sweetness of the apple-tobacco-loukoum.  And it is delicate – diaphanous, one of those scents that seems to radiate from the skin rather than sit on top of it.  Next to Bosphore, Cuir de Lancome is almost raucous.

I’ve already spoken with a few people who find it too tepid — too vague or doughy or evanescent.  Me?  I’m enchanted.

image of Turkish delight: loukoummania.com

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nozknoz
15 years ago

Haven’t finished testing this one – I want to really do the three-day neo-signature scent challenge with it before I make up my mind – but I think I may be going to love it. There was a bit of an initial shock as I was hoping for something smokier (apple shisha), and it is sweeter than I usually like, but the combination of the apple and leather is kind of fascinating. I also think I will like in cold weather more than warm.

15 years ago

Erm…um….vanilla embedded in sweetness. It may be because It was a day of sniff age, but by the time dry down was well underway, I was beyond meh. You know that move certain mothers threaten with, when they grab an ear and don’t inflict pain…YET, but you’d better pay attention or the grip will become vise-like? I kept my hand at a fair distance. I really, really want your experience. I am a fan of the Cuir, as you know, so maybe I’ll try my sample again soon.

Truth be told, I nearly gave it away right there, except I realized I could include it in one of my swaps. ;)

15 years ago
Reply to  March

Yeah, like L’Eau d’Hiver (put whistling guy here)…

:)

15 years ago
Reply to  March

You know, I get puzzled by nose line ups. There are things I in complete sync with someone on (like, say, you, oh fab March)…but then other somethings are completely not simpatico. Like, say, the way I enjoy Hiver. ;)

15 years ago

smooth but not dense, sweet but not cloying sounds good to me.

15 years ago

The list of notes sounds horrifying, but I know that BD must have done something very different, something BD-rish :) with them, so, I might be willing to risk trying this :)

Flora
15 years ago

I think this one might really work for me. Loved Havana Vanille, liked NdeT, but did not fall in love; it’s no Carnal Flower.

I do like loukhoum-related aromas but not the super-saturated sugary kind (is there any other?)so this new one is a must-try for me. Never tried Rahat Loukhoum and I really must one of these days. The Keiko Mecheri one is nice but just too much for me although I did enjoy the “Soir” version of it.

Flora
15 years ago
Reply to  March

March, in that case I would strongly suggest that you not ever smell the “Poudre” version of the KM Loukhoum. Powderphobes are created that way, if they were not already so inclined.

The only tuberose perfume I have ever smelled that came close to Carnal Flower is something that was discontinued long ago, so yes, she is the Queen!

Francesca
15 years ago

I can’t believe I forgot to check in today til just now! I have a sample of Traversée that I’ve been meaning to check out. Thanks for the reminder.

DinaC
15 years ago

I’m eager to try this, March, ’cause I actually visited Istanbul back in 1974 when I was nine. We had just moved to Turkey; my dad was in the US Air Force. I’m a fan of light, transparent scents, so I’m hopeful that I’ll like this. I liked the NdT and ended up wearing it several times this summer, so maybe BD’s style is one I can become a fan of. I like Timbuktu, too.

I still want to sample the Coeur de Vetiver Sacre, too. Haven’t done much sniffing this fall. I need to get out more! :-) Today I’m wearing some ol’ Grey Flannel, which I love. It was one of my dad’s scents, so it holds great memories.

jen
15 years ago

Sounds like a pass for me – but I love reading this site. Its my go to in the mornings also with a large mug of tea. I am so excited to dig into my swap goodies too, and I sent out hats today!

Ann N.
15 years ago
Reply to  March

Hi March, LOL at the Big Cheese comment! Same thing here at my house. Hubby arched an eyebrow at me when he saw the mail and I held up my hands and said, “Perfume swaps — honest!!”
P.S. Thanks, am loving my goodie from you!

Ann N.
15 years ago
Reply to  March

Dig in, woman! Whatcha waiting for? Christmas? :)

Musette
15 years ago
Reply to  Ann N.

I am! I am hoping to strrrrrretch these lovely boxes out for awhile, though ‘Christmas’ is pushing it a bit. The anticipation is lovely.

xo >-)

FragrantWitch
15 years ago

Hmmm… I may have to test this one out. I was afraid of the sweetness as my skin amps sweet like a mad thing and I wind up queasy whilst simultaneously making people around me think of heading for a bakery! But transparent and ethereal spun-sugar sort of sweetness with woods sounds quite good. Thanks for the review, March. Btw, you are genius- my swaps have arrived and I am a gorgeous-smelling happy bunny! :-)

Illdone
15 years ago

Can I very humbly go of topic a bit (ok, a lot) an ask if anyone knows if there are any interesting perfume shops (or the likes of it) to see or visit in Kôln, Germany? My husband is kidnapping me this weekend -he told me this morning- for a three day stay in Cologne and the internet doesn’t seem to make me any wiser, besides the obvious 4711 place no mention of anything! Please don’t make me visit christmas-fairs for 3 long days. Any suggestions are very welcome!

Illdone
15 years ago
Reply to  March

Thank you very much, March! Will surely google these options.
Also thank you HVS, absent or not..
:x

hvs
15 years ago
Reply to  Illdone

Bitte schoen!

florentina
15 years ago

Thanks for the inspiration…. again!
I wore some of my sample to bed last night… tart apples and lingering powdery sugar finish…I’ve never tasted rahat loukoum and looked up recipes last night… I want to try to make some for Christmas! Hoping it tastes as good as it smells…:)

maidenbliss
15 years ago

March, you’re breath of scented air, early in the morning. Your descriptions are the best!
‘Cuir’s definitely more powdery – it smells like the inside of a ladies’ leather handbag with some expensive cosmetics’. That makes me want to rummage through my old purses.
The foodie comments here are making me want some hot cocoa (blizzard here) with Peppermint Schnappes and whipped cream. TdB sounds like something I’d want to smell on someone else…on a long not-so-bumpy airplane flight.

15 years ago
Reply to  March

Me too. I put on TdB and thought, “candy” — original, huh? And then I liked it. Then didn’t like it. Then did. Luckily I ordered two samples. I’d love to A/B (sniff alternately) it with Cuir…which I’ll do as soon as my sinuses clear up, thanks for the idea!

karin
15 years ago

I am beginning to think I don’t like vanilla. I always thought I did. But after SDV and Havana Vanille and Noire du Mexique and countless others…then Eau Duelle…it’s becoming more clear that vanilla just isn’t my thing! I have to say, I’m shocked! I mean, who doesn’t like vanilla!? Apparently, ME!!!

As to TdB – I love it! Great word – enchanted. It’s interesting. A good comfort scent, IMO!

DinaC
15 years ago
Reply to  karin

I’ll join you over in the Not Liking Vanilla corner, Karin, and keep you company. ‘kay? :-)

DJ
15 years ago
Reply to  March

I like vanilla on other people. Have not found one that smells good on me. Will be looking out for that vanilla post ;)

Admin
15 years ago
Reply to  March

um…what is the @};- for you?

😕

xo >-)

15 years ago
Reply to  March

Butt-ing in to announce the old TDC (Rose Poivree) is where I find vasewater. Such is my nose. Not on (ahem) crack.

karin
15 years ago
Reply to  March

It definitely ISN’T Shalimar for me!

15 years ago

It was definitely a love at first sniff for me. The sweetness is balanced so beautifully against the woods! It really grabbed me right away.

15 years ago

Based on the notes, which also indicate sweet candy nightmare, I should have loathed Kiss Me Tender and instead I fell in love. So I s’pose I should give this a snort as well. NdT was a big disappointment for me – I’m still working on the sample, but so far it has not exactly grabbed me by the ass and shaken me around the room. Tubey Whore that I am (now THERE’S a t-shirt), it’s not… man-eating enough to suit me.

Masha
15 years ago
Reply to  March

Oh no! I read your first sentence “NdT is not an ass-grabber,” and I remembered that beautiful, romantic piece Denyse B wrote about the bride who wore NdT!You put some funny imagery in my head, March!

Sariah
15 years ago

I love your description of “the Duchaufour old-vase-water miasma”. I never could get into Timbuktu, try as I might, the inspiration really appeals to me.

Your description of Bosphore makes me think it’s a less sweet cousin of the Nazgul…which I love…will have to try it. Thanks for the review.

Louise
15 years ago

My tiny sniffage of the Traversee was lost among several other trials, but what I thought I was maybe smelling was quite pleasant, with no unpleasantness as others have reported. Not earth-shaking, but light and wearable.

Will have to give it a real go, all by itself.

Louise
15 years ago
Reply to  Louise

oy, repetitive reiteration!

Masha
15 years ago
Reply to  March

Women who love cumin, shout real loud! I love my new vintage Femme, which isn’t cumin, but very very similar in effect.

15 years ago
Reply to  March

I do. Hence it became a gift to one who knew how to love it. :)

sweetlife
15 years ago
Reply to  March

I bet I know what that cuminy thing is that you’re wearing. I almost dropped my sample in the mail to you. Right after it said CUMIN!!!! It said, “SEND ME TO MARCH.” Look forward to seeing if I’m right!

Admin
15 years ago
Reply to  March

oh, hush. You know I’ll be there. There is no cumin in vintage Femme – at least not to me – YMMV – but! the NEW Femme is almost pornographic, imo. I will bore your toenails off tomorrow about what happened to me with contemp Femme and a meeting……

…that way March will have TWO commenters.

xo >-)

Admin
15 years ago

We (the tiny Saturday crew which, nonetheless, managed to suck up all the air in the cosmetics section – or maybe that was just me////:) ) anyway, WE all tried it and I was hoping for your revelation, March. Instead I got b-( reinforcing the notion that anything even remotely sweet just ooks an >-) out!

OTOH I fell hard for Fleur de Cassie body butter. Unlike the perfume, the BB amps up the fleeting leather note. I got no leather in TdBosph at. all. But now I want to try it again, see if it’s there for me…

xoxoxo >-)

karin
15 years ago
Reply to  Musette

Hey M! There should be some TdB in the package, so…when you get rid of that nasty sinus infection…(oh, so sorry you have a sinus infection! A perfumista’s worst enemy)! Hope it disappears quickly!!!

Admin
15 years ago
Reply to  karin

oooh! yay! I’m hoping that this stupid thing does away quickly – lots of steam inhalation to push it along and OUT!

thanks! I’m sooo excited to try all my new, fun swaps!

xoxoxo >-)

Admin
15 years ago
Reply to  March

I love Cuir, though even it goes a bit ‘soft’ on me – but I’mo do your thing, with the Trav on one wrist and Cuir on the other.

xoxoxo >-)

Admin
15 years ago
Reply to  March

[-(

ya can’t make me! neener neener. I’mo try it anyway! so there.

(now watch me fall in love 8-|

xo >-)

Ann N.
15 years ago

Hi Donanicola, thanks so much for asking about the solid compacts. I really appreciate it.

donanicola
15 years ago

Sometimes, just sometimes, a cube of squishy soft rose and pistachio turkish delight is just the thing. I am so looking forward to trying this but not sure if it’s reached the UK yet. It was’t in Libs last week. btw, I asked about the possibility of refilling the solid compacts of Eau Duelle but they said no. :(

Sherri M.
15 years ago

I’m on the same page with everyone else. TdB is likeable, well-composed, pretty and easy to wear. I just haven’t fallen in love with it, and have so many beautiful perfumes, I’d rather wear those I love. Ah, the challenges of Bertrand Duchaufour et al; we are such a tough audience! :-)

Robin
15 years ago

I do wonder if Timbuktu will get you eventually, as it did me. Old vase water has a way of sneaking up on you.

Masha
15 years ago
Reply to  March

I keep trying Timbuktu, but I like it as a home fragrance, not on my skin. It’s too sour on me.

Masha
15 years ago
Reply to  March

Well, Timbuktu is based on an African paste that’s used to deodorize people and repel bugs and poisonous snakes. So someone should try it rockhounding in the desert and see if it works?

Masha
15 years ago
Reply to  March

Oh, I don’t know Cologne at all, except the lovely cathedral.

Ann N.
15 years ago

Hey March, great review, as usual. Once again, you had me howling through my morning tea, for the love of Pete! I’m right there with you on this one; it’s surprisingly pretty, and yes, even enchanting. We’ll be happy to take any unwanted samples of this, won’t we?

Melissa
15 years ago

I’ve been whining about my disinterest in a number of recent launches on another forum recently. Unfortunately, TdB is among them. I appreciate it, but I can’t muster up any enthusiasm. Something about the rosy/nutty Turkish delight, the musky note, the touch of powder (I do get a bit) and maybe the fruitiness give it a weird-ish sweetness. I happily wear a number of gourmands, so maybe I prefer typical stick-to-your-skin sweet.

Suzy Q
15 years ago

March, the same thing happened to me! Your descriptions are perfect. I generally don’t like fruit, food or leather. And yet here they are, gorgeous. It’s the transparency and balance of contrasts that make it work. BD is like a god to me: Amaranthine, NdT (I’ve got the big bottle) and now TdB.

Illdone
15 years ago

I wore it twice (sample I got) and thought it was very well done, nice and sweet,lots of sugary iris-water to my nose. Translate ; boring ,easy to forget? A safe option when you want something inobtrusive and easy-going. Got enough well-composed sweeties in my closet allready. NdT and CoeurdVS on the other hand totally did me in a few month’s ago (got FB’s of those!)

Tamara*J
15 years ago

March I’m wearing it tonight girl! My bedtime SOTE.
It’s delightful and dusted with powdered sugar. The notes will make doubters wary but it really is a light thing but tenacious, I forget about it but then catch a lil’ whiff.
I love that you cannot overdo it. L’Artisan at it’s best.

I’ll end this by adding that tonight after my bath I was tidying up the living room and Juju (13) was sitting on the couch doing her homework.
I walked by her…”Mama? Come back here, what are you wearing?”
I came back to her and told her while she inhaled my neck..
“Do you like it?”
I was curious and always love their opinions good or bad.
“You smell gooood!” she said with a pleased smile.

Is it a surprise I want a FB? ;)

Sherri M.
15 years ago
Reply to  Tamara*J

Tamara,

My (very particular) teens liked this one, too! This one appeals to several generations, and would make a great gift for my daughters were it not for the price–$115 for a perfume cuts too much into my teens’ Christmas budgets, unless they ask for it specifically.

dinazad
15 years ago

Now I definitely need to try it – I wanted to anyway, because the name reminds me of a rather adventurous search for the copy of a royal Osman pleasure boat which was supposed to row tourists around the Bosphorus (the excursion was meant to be a birthday surprise for a friend). We did find it in the end. It rowed us around the Golden Horn, though, and we were obviously the only people interested, so we had the whole boat to ourselves. More rowers than passengers. It was lovely – everything was a bit fuzzy and pastel-colored in the evening light, like old porcelain, and then the call for prayer echoed over the water. I HOPE Traversée will be the olfactory equivalent, once I try it!

Masha
15 years ago

I really can’t wear the usual lokum fragrances, they are sweet and cloying on me. And I’m not a big leather fan, either. So TdB works very well for me, an ethereal leather gourmand!

Masha
15 years ago
Reply to  March

I think one of the reasons it may not be zooming along is that they released it in the wrong season. It works so much better in warm weather, to my mind. It just doesn’t say “winter” to me at all, but it’s gorgeous on a warm, sunny day.

Masha
15 years ago
Reply to  March

I go for spicier, skankier scents in winter, with heavy basenotes because it’s so darned cold in the Alps! TdB is just too ethereal to fight back the icy chill.

vinery
15 years ago

I find this very much like black forest cake–sugared cherries and chocolate. Way too foody for me, but I can imagine others might like it a lot.

15 years ago

I liked this. In a “this is pleasant” sort of way. As in a “if I was stuck on a long plane ride next to someone wafting it I’d be a happy camper” way. Just not in a “I need to spend my cable, cell phone, gas and electric bill to own you” kind of way.

I really prefer the full-on man-candy of Rahat Loukoum. I’m sure you’re shocked at the revelation… :d

Since it’s rainy and chilly here I might just trot out the Rahat for the office tomorrow!

Masha
15 years ago
Reply to  tmp00

That’s funny, because I did wear it on a long, and scary, plane ride, and it was very cheering, yet not overwhelming to the other passengers. Of course, they were too busy screaming as our airplane tossed around in the turbulence to notice what I was wearing!

Tom
15 years ago
Reply to  March

Yep, it’s exclusive. Darn it.

Amy K
15 years ago

I’ve been in a state of sampling ennui for six months or so, but your description might have just motivated me to place a sample order. The idea of a transparent loukhoum scent sounds great. I love Montale’s Sweet Oriental Dream, but it’s kind of the opposite of transparent.

Amy K
15 years ago
Reply to  March

Rahat Loukhoum was one of the first niche fragrances I tried when I was getting interested in perfume, and my reaction was, “Why would anyone want to smell like cherry cough syrup?” Louve was the same when I smelled it years later. Maybe I should give RL another chance. I do like KM Loukhoum and its spinoffs quite a bit, but they always get a “Did you pour on a ton of baby powder?” from my husband.

15 years ago

I loved SL’s RL ONCE. For a split second–the one when I was crazy ( I swear there was only the one). Are you saying this is different in the sense that it won’t turn sweet on my turns-everything-sweet skin? Because if so, maybe I’ll try it. Maybe. :)

violetnoir
15 years ago

Seems like a lot of people have been raving about this, but I still can’t quite get there. However, the jury is still out, so I need to test it again.

On the other hand, I love Couer de Vetiver Sacre. And Nuit de Tuberose.

Go figure!

Hugs!

Geordan1244
15 years ago

Hey March,

I was pretty ho-hum about it when I first tried it, but kept getting wiffs of something pretty while sitting in church and realized it was me! :) I do like it, just not enough to grab me and pull me into a committment.:d

Geordan1244
15 years ago
Reply to  March

No, it’s totally pretty! But it just doesn’t “do it” for me… you know, like a friend that you just can’t commit to more than friendship with?