Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune by Jean-Paul Guerlain and Mathilde Laurent for Guerlain 1999

Hi there POSSE! Guerlain brought in the Aqua Allegoria line to entice a new generation of consumers to their products. I’m told that Parisienne women were often brought to Guerlain quite young to choose their first fragrance. It was quite an adventure back then. Sales staff were interested in creating life long customers. They would start with something soft and bright and as their tastes matured would make their way through the sumptuous Guerlain ranks. Aqua Allegoria’s original 1999 lineup included Herba Fresca, Lavande Velours, Pamplelune, Rosa Magnifica and Ylang & Vanille (my personal favourite).

Times have changed but we still have Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune

Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune by Guerlain 1999

Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune Guerlain FragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Grapefruit, Bergamot
Heart: Neroli, Petitgrain, Blackcurrant
Base: Patchouli, Vanilla

A bite into a fresh cut grapefruit quickly softens to a refreshing bergamot backed further by the greener tones of neroli and pettigrain. Blackcurrant is noticeable but in a clean, only slightly squeaky way, while patchouli and vanilla aren’t really noticeable at all. That’s no great problem because what I want from my Pamlelune is a burst of refreshment. It definitively offers that for about an hour and then settles to quietly puff out citrus and blackcurrant.

Many decry the clean screechiness of the modern Pamplelune. Sure, Pamplelune has less of the rumble from beneath the squeal of citrus. The high pitched pissy note has also calmed considerably. It has become more about the bergamot and neroli than the grapefruit, blackcurrant explosion than it was. I find it a wonderful warm weather wear for refreshment and an excellent reminder of summer in the winter cool blues.

Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune Guerlain Grapefruit liz west FlickrFlickr

I’m wondering if my new bottle will settle over time. Will more exposure to air and other contaminants change it? This could all be a problem with buying new bottles. I am thrilled with this new baby and am spritzing it liberally to cut through Sydney’s still sweaty heat. If you’re in the northern hemisphere you might like it as spring and summer warm your bones.

Surrender To Chance has samples from $2.50/ml
Pamplelune is also available very cheaply at the discounters online.

Are you a Pamplelune fan?
Portia xx



  • Kismet429 says:

    Citrus is one of the few “fruit” notes I can abide, and I love me some grapefruit, but was disappointed in Pamplelune, which I found thin and screechy. But Guerlain is still my favorite perfume house and for my birthday my sweet stepdaughter gave me vintage bottle of Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat. Had never heard of this but I love it. Lemon and lime, straight up–very refreshing and surprisingly long-lasting.

  • Ingeborg says:

    A big fan here, it was nearly like a signature scent. I must be on my fifth bottle, most of them have been the 125 ml size. I hope they aren’t taking away any of the bitterness? There’s always Mandarine Basilic if one wants a softer citrus (my bottle of that one has lasted me for 6 years now, not equally interesting as the grapefruit to my nose).

  • tiffanie says:

    Ylange & Vanille was so beautiful, one of my favorites from Guerlain. I like so many of their citruses. Pamplelune is now on my must-sniff list. I’d also like to try Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat, another one that’s easy to find for not too many pennies.

    • Portia says:

      Hey there Tiffanie,
      Yeah, wasn’t it glorious.
      Their colognes are very nice. The one they did for the men was my fave of them. 68.
      Portia xx

  • Jennifer S says:

    I have a sample of the Herba Fresca to try yet but the Pamplelune has always been on my radar! I love grapefruit notes and they like me too lol. The above mentioned Lemon Verde sounds nice as well.

  • malsnano86 says:

    I have two older minis of Pamplelune, and it does kinda smell like cat pee on me, but I just don’t care. 🙂

  • Tara C says:

    Sadly I can’t wear it, grapefruit turns to cat pee on me. But it smells nice on a friend.

  • VerbenaLuvvr says:

    I have Pamplelune, as well as Lemon Verde and Herba Fresca from this collection. I don’t know about “matured” tastes 🙂 –I’m middle aged and I actually prefer these over most other Guerlains.

    • Portia says:

      That’s really interesting VerbenaLuvvr.
      They do have their own following. While I think I prefer some of the others I reach for the Aqua Allegorias more regularly than most.
      Portia xx

  • Cyndi says:

    I’ve never tried it, but I always read great things about it on other blogs. Would love to try a sample as I’m currently looking for a good refreshing summer fragrance.

  • HeidiC says:

    Pamplelune is one of my favorite summer scents! That bitter grapefruit is so refreshing. But after a friend read that note as cat piss, I’m always a little worried that others aren’t enjoying it and are eyeballing me as some crazy cat lady. Not that that stops me.