Hey there Posse. I was reminded a couple of weeks ago by my post on Fleur Diamantine by Maison Crivelli that a bunch of us love Bas de Soie by Serge Lutens. While not being note kindred the two do share an attitude. Soft enough to wear to work but interesting enough to keep you riveted. A bit like President Theodore Roosevelt’s foreign policy. “Speak softly and carry a big stick; you will go far.” HA!
Can you believe that this year marks its 10 year anniversary? Bloody hell, feels like only a moment.
Recently I finished a Surrender To Chance decant but I finally bit the bullet and opened my bottle. Woo Hoo!
Bas de Soie by Serge Lutens 2010
Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Hyacinth, iris, galbanum, spicy notes, musk
My first though when spritzing is “ooooh, what a lovely soft, watercolour version of narcissus.” Then I realise it’s hyacinth and iris. Creating the prettiest, clearest rendition of spring available without being a punch in the nose. Sheer and still potent but not aggressive or daunting in any way. The musks smooth 
the whole fragrance and the closest thing my mind can give you a reference with is blue glass. That lovely dark blue glass, quite thick usually and with little bubbles captured within. While remaining poised, cool and elegant there is something rustic and lovingly hand made about the way Bas de Soie smells for me in the first 15-30 minutes, depending on the day.
As the initial fireworks burn off I’m left with exactly the idea of Silk Stockings. Those incredibly fine, gossamer thread, shaped and sheer, leg perfecters that still breathe. Almost transparent by now, Bas de Soie becomes luminous. A cool and serene scent that will make you an oasis of chill in a madly bustling world. I can easily imagine it working as a restorative after any kind of drama or trouble. Personally I like to wear it when I need focus or to drop levels of excitement.
Even to dry down the crisp green stays, though muted and made fluffier my musks.
For something so sheer the longevity is excellent. Projection is never intense but more of a creeper if you sit still. Then the people around you will get impact. Interestingly, Bas de Soie has excellent sillage. It does light up the air as you pass. Utterly unisex. Perfect spring scent, or to remind you of spring.
Is this how Bas de Soie wears for you?
Portia xx
This is one of my favorites, and it always surprises me it doesn’t get more love. it is just lovely to wear and so cooly elegant.
I went through two bottles of it and then stopped wearing it for a while. That often seems to be the way when I’ve bought a back-up bottle of something. During The Interim I cleaned out closet and found I had not in fact used up the back-up bottle, so was able to break it out. These days I am reaching for mild and soothing scents.
YAY for finding half used back ups in the closet! That’s a C19 WIN AnnieA, if ever there was one.
Portia xx
Nobody seems to mention this anymore so it’s great to see you’re giving it an airing. I had a decant of this years ago, and though I liked it a lot it wasn’t a big love. Money saved. What I remember from wearing it was iris and hairspray. Yes, hairspray.
HA! Cassieflower,
There are PLENTY of hairspray vibe perfumes but I would never have picked Bas de Soie as one of them.
Portia xx
Portia,
I’m one of those people who love Bas de Soie since it has my two favorite notes: iris and galbanum. I love the way you described it and agree with you. It has the lovely green freshness of spring with its ethereal moodiness. Bits of sunny and rainy weather, gusts of wind, and maybe a snow squall too if you’re not careful! Like you I get good longevity and projection with this one.
Hey DinaC,
YAY! Snap on another scent.
Galbanum is one of my favourite notes. It makes everything smell like spring.
Portia xx
I’m still annoyed I didn’t buy a bottle while it was available locally. I only had a sample or two. The iris in this one is just right for me. I am looking online for a partial bottle. Bas de Soie is really cool and with good sillage without taking over the room at all. I find the name very descriptive (sheer, cool and elegant scent).
Bummer Ingeborg,
I can’t even see it on FragranceNet anymore. Does Serge Lutens send to you from Paris?
Good luck with the hunt.
Portia xx
Yes, I think they still ship here. Years ago it used to be difficult to be exempted from French TVA/VAT, so my friends would at least wait for an offer of free shipping and then just pay the VAT for both countries. I keep seeing the woody SLs online here (used) , but few of the floral perfumes and no Bas de Soie.
The good thing about living in Oz is that we get exempted all EU VAT.
Portia xx
Great review Portia of one of my favourite Serge’s. Interesting that you get a sense of blue glass. My synesthesia goes in that direction too but somehow more on the purple side with swirls of green. This perfume I find so similar to another favourite Bel Respiro. I could almost mistake them for one another but of course Monsieur Serge’s creation isn’t quite as clean as Bel Respiro. I detect just the faintest, tiniest bit of a sort of old flower water smell in Bas de Soie that I don’t smell at all in Bel Respiro. I do love them both, and curious to hear if you notice a similarity.
Hey SV,
OOOOH! I haven’t done Bel Respiro in ages. It never clicked that they are similar beasts. I was at the CHANEL counter today too. Next time I’m there.
Portia xx
I do have some favorites from this house. This sounds really nice and it’s going on my sampling list for sure!
Hey Jennifer,
YAY! Glad to have inspired a little lemming.
Portia xxx
Hey, dollface! Bas des Soie is one of my alltime faves from Uncle Serge – I wear it relentlessly in early Spring, up until it hits the 80s here in the Midwestern US. It’s cool, elegant, interesting… what’s not to love? xoxoxo
YAY Musette! That makes me really happy. I bet you waft it with Ra-Sha-Sha!
Portia xxx
Sounds wonderful. I’m very partial to Iris
Hey Matty,
I bet you’d LOVE Bas de Soie.
Portia xx
What a great review of a gorgeous fragrance, thank you!
Heya March,
Thank you!
High praise indeed.
So good to see you. Hope you and the crew are well?
Portia xx
Thanks for the review! I have no idea why I’ve never tried this – I love Chamade and Heure Exquise (Goutal) but this hyacinth/galbanum never made it on my radar. Off to get a sample!
Hey there AD,
Bas de Soie is far less cozy Hollywood starlet in furs and much more spring gypsy, free in the world. I hope you like it.
Portia xx
P, that is an excellent description! However, I would add that it’s free…. until that gypsy gets home, puts on a corset and silk stockings…. and gets ready for dinner and dancing with the Lord of the Manor… 😉
Oh Musette, that was perfect. Made me giggle.
<3
HA! Fabulous
You DEFINITELY need to sample Bas de Soie then! I love Chamade and Heure Exquise, and Bas de Soie is like a sister or cousin. 🙂
Perfect description, Portia, I’m a big fan of Bas de Soie.
Thanks Rosarita313,
YAY for finding Bas de Soie fans.
Do you wear it much?
Portia xx
Your description was perfect and that is exactly how this beautiful scent wears on me!
Thanks Filomena813.
Nice to have a bunch of Bas de Soie fans chatting. We are a small bunch.
Portia xx
Another fan of Bas de Soie here, you’ve described it perfectly. Not sure if it’s still in production, but when they did the big repackaging with the sale from Lutens back to Shiseido I bought a couple of bottles to get me through. I love it because it’s fresh and springy but not too astringently green like some are.
Heya TaraC,
My bottle is from the panic buying spree when we heard of major changes too. I’m pretty sure that the 50ml will last me 10 years. Fingers crossed.
Portia xx
Gosh, what a cracker of a review,Portia! I’ve never tried Bas de Soie, but will certainly hunt it down after reading your wonderfully evocative post- bravo!!
Thanks Lee.
I hope you enjoy Bas de Soie as much as I do. It’s one of the less often spoken about Serges.
Portia xx