Bas de Soie by Serge Lutens

Hey there Posse. I was reminded a couple of weeks ago by my post on Fleur Diamantine by Maison Crivelli that a bunch of us love Bas de Soie by Serge Lutens. While not being note kindred the two do share an attitude. Soft enough to wear to work but interesting enough to keep you riveted. A bit like President Theodore Roosevelt’s foreign policy. “Speak softly and carry a big stick; you will go far.” HA!

Can you believe that this year marks its 10 year anniversary? Bloody hell, feels like only a moment.

Recently I finished a Surrender To Chance decant but I finally bit the bullet and opened my bottle. Woo Hoo!

Bas de Soie by Serge Lutens 2010

Bas de Soie by Serge Lutens

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Hyacinth, iris, galbanum, spicy notes, musk

My first though when spritzing is “ooooh, what a lovely soft, watercolour version of narcissus.” Then I realise it’s hyacinth and iris. Creating the prettiest, clearest rendition of spring available without being a punch in the nose. Sheer and still potent but not aggressive or daunting in any way. The musks smooth Blue Glass Bas de Soie May 2020the whole fragrance and the closest thing my mind can give you a reference with is blue glass. That lovely dark blue glass, quite thick usually and with little bubbles captured within. While remaining poised, cool and elegant there is something rustic and lovingly hand made about the way Bas de Soie smells for me in the first 15-30 minutes, depending on the day.

As the initial fireworks burn off I’m left with exactly the idea of Silk Stockings. Those incredibly fine, gossamer thread, shaped and sheer, leg perfecters that still breathe. Almost transparent by now, Bas de Soie becomes luminous. A cool and serene scent that will make you an oasis of chill in a madly bustling world. I can easily imagine it working as a restorative after any kind of drama or trouble. Personally I like to wear it when I need focus or to drop levels of excitement.

Even to dry down the crisp green stays, though muted and made fluffier my musks.

For something so sheer the longevity is excellent. Projection is never intense but more of a creeper if you sit still. Then the people around you will get impact. Interestingly, Bas de Soie has excellent sillage. It does light up the air as you pass. Utterly unisex. Perfect spring scent, or to remind you of spring.

Is this how Bas de Soie wears for you?
Portia xx

  • Patty says:

    This is one of my favorites, and it always surprises me it doesn’t get more love. it is just lovely to wear and so cooly elegant.

  • AnnieA says:

    I went through two bottles of it and then stopped wearing it for a while. That often seems to be the way when I’ve bought a back-up bottle of something. During The Interim I cleaned out closet and found I had not in fact used up the back-up bottle, so was able to break it out. These days I am reaching for mild and soothing scents.

  • Cassieflower says:

    Nobody seems to mention this anymore so it’s great to see you’re giving it an airing. I had a decant of this years ago, and though I liked it a lot it wasn’t a big love. Money saved. What I remember from wearing it was iris and hairspray. Yes, hairspray.

    • Portia says:

      HA! Cassieflower,
      There are PLENTY of hairspray vibe perfumes but I would never have picked Bas de Soie as one of them.
      Portia xx

  • Dina C. says:

    I’m one of those people who love Bas de Soie since it has my two favorite notes: iris and galbanum. I love the way you described it and agree with you. It has the lovely green freshness of spring with its ethereal moodiness. Bits of sunny and rainy weather, gusts of wind, and maybe a snow squall too if you’re not careful! Like you I get good longevity and projection with this one.

    • Portia says:

      Hey DinaC,
      YAY! Snap on another scent.
      Galbanum is one of my favourite notes. It makes everything smell like spring.
      Portia xx

  • Ingeborg says:

    I’m still annoyed I didn’t buy a bottle while it was available locally. I only had a sample or two. The iris in this one is just right for me. I am looking online for a partial bottle. Bas de Soie is really cool and with good sillage without taking over the room at all. I find the name very descriptive (sheer, cool and elegant scent).

    • Portia says:

      Bummer Ingeborg,
      I can’t even see it on FragranceNet anymore. Does Serge Lutens send to you from Paris?
      Good luck with the hunt.
      Portia xx

      • Ingeborg says:

        Yes, I think they still ship here. Years ago it used to be difficult to be exempted from French TVA/VAT, so my friends would at least wait for an offer of free shipping and then just pay the VAT for both countries. I keep seeing the woody SLs online here (used) , but few of the floral perfumes and no Bas de Soie.

  • SonomaVelvet says:

    Great review Portia of one of my favourite Serge’s. Interesting that you get a sense of blue glass. My synesthesia goes in that direction too but somehow more on the purple side with swirls of green. This perfume I find so similar to another favourite Bel Respiro. I could almost mistake them for one another but of course Monsieur Serge’s creation isn’t quite as clean as Bel Respiro. I detect just the faintest, tiniest bit of a sort of old flower water smell in Bas de Soie that I don’t smell at all in Bel Respiro. I do love them both, and curious to hear if you notice a similarity.

    • Portia says:

      Hey SV,
      OOOOH! I haven’t done Bel Respiro in ages. It never clicked that they are similar beasts. I was at the CHANEL counter today too. Next time I’m there.
      Portia xx

  • Jennifer says:

    I do have some favorites from this house. This sounds really nice and it’s going on my sampling list for sure!

  • Musette says:

    Hey, dollface! Bas des Soie is one of my alltime faves from Uncle Serge – I wear it relentlessly in early Spring, up until it hits the 80s here in the Midwestern US. It’s cool, elegant, interesting… what’s not to love? xoxoxo

  • matty1649 says:

    Sounds wonderful. I’m very partial to Iris

  • March says:

    What a great review of a gorgeous fragrance, thank you!

  • Amateur Dilettante says:

    Thanks for the review! I have no idea why I’ve never tried this – I love Chamade and Heure Exquise (Goutal) but this hyacinth/galbanum never made it on my radar. Off to get a sample!

  • rosarita313 says:

    Perfect description, Portia, I’m a big fan of Bas de Soie.

  • filomena813 says:

    Your description was perfect and that is exactly how this beautiful scent wears on me!

  • Tara C says:

    Another fan of Bas de Soie here, you’ve described it perfectly. Not sure if it’s still in production, but when they did the big repackaging with the sale from Lutens back to Shiseido I bought a couple of bottles to get me through. I love it because it’s fresh and springy but not too astringently green like some are.

    • Portia says:

      Heya TaraC,
      My bottle is from the panic buying spree when we heard of major changes too. I’m pretty sure that the 50ml will last me 10 years. Fingers crossed.
      Portia xx

  • lee says:

    Gosh, what a cracker of a review,Portia! I’ve never tried Bas de Soie, but will certainly hunt it down after reading your wonderfully evocative post- bravo!!

    • Portia says:

      Thanks Lee.
      I hope you enjoy Bas de Soie as much as I do. It’s one of the less often spoken about Serges.
      Portia xx