Hey Posse! Just rediscovered my DSH Perfumes Souvenir de Malmaison sample in the New Idea 2023 grand sample/decant use. Most of them are relegated to a 2 line explanation but something this lovely needs a whole post.
Here’s what the DSH Perfumes site has to say: A famous rose was plucked then cultivated from Chateau de Malmaison; residence of famous lovers, Napoleon and Josephine Bonaparte. A famous fragrance style of the early 19th Century, Malmaison is the spicy floriental style based on carnation, rose, spices, woods, and musk. Now we find these two influences coming together to create a new carnation soliflore fragrance with added pepper, clove, and a rich base of vanilla, balsams, cedar, sandalwood. And for a twist on the animalic nuance, there’s ambergris. The rose in the heart is the perfect compliment to the rich and spiced carnation, yet remains balanced for men or women.
Souvenir de Malmaison by DSH Perfumes (A Carnation Perfume) 2016
Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Carnation, Cloves, Tolu Balsam, Bulgarian Rose, Rose de Mai, Rose, Cinnamon, Patchouli, Atlas Cedar, Black Pepper, Labdanum, Spicy Notes, Amber, Ambergris, Jasmine, Vanilla, Bergamot, Ylang-Ylang, Australian Sandalwood, Lemon
WOW! Carnation, clear as day. Straight out of the gate. Carnation and clove. I’ve been happily ambushed by a room full of carnations. It’s awesome. Just to be clear, I’m wearing the oil.
Into the heart I get loads of spices and resins. They don’t overtake the carnation but they do change the fragrance. It is more interesting that a pure soliflor. The roses come in gusts too.
If you love Caron Bellodgia then this will send you into raptures. Souvenir de Malmaison is the next step. As sophisticated as Bellodgia was this is something so 21st century. Yes, it takes a goods look back at a 19th century style but does it bang up to date. I’ve worn the whole 2ml over a few days and love the whole ride. From beginning to end Souvenir de Malmaison has this wonderful structure and direction.
A unisex floral is always nice. Being the oil it’s a beautiful, low key scent that lasts for hours and hours. Any energetic movement seems to bring it back to life also. I can still smell a very light vanilla/clove next morning. Then I want to do it all again.
Bravo Dawn. This one is unbelievably gorgeous.
Does it sound good to any of you?