Souvenir de Malmaison by DSH Perfumes

Hey Posse! Just rediscovered my DSH Perfumes Souvenir de Malmaison sample in the New Idea 2023 grand sample/decant use. Most of them are relegated to a 2 line explanation but something this lovely needs a whole post.

Here’s what the DSH Perfumes site has to say: A famous rose was plucked then cultivated from Chateau de Malmaison; residence of famous lovers, Napoleon and Josephine Bonaparte.  A famous fragrance style of the early 19th Century, Malmaison is the spicy floriental style based on carnation, rose, spices, woods, and musk.  Now we find these two influences coming together to create a new carnation soliflore fragrance with added pepper, clove, and a rich base of vanilla, balsams, cedar, sandalwood.  And for a twist on the animalic nuance, there’s ambergris.  The rose in the heart is the perfect compliment to the rich and spiced carnation, yet remains balanced for men or women.

Souvenir de Malmaison by DSH Perfumes (A Carnation Perfume) 2016

Souvenir de Malmaison by DSH Perfumes (A Carnation Perfume) 2016

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Carnation, Cloves, Tolu Balsam, Bulgarian Rose, Rose de Mai, Rose, Cinnamon, Patchouli, Atlas Cedar, Black Pepper, Labdanum, Spicy Notes, Amber, Ambergris, Jasmine, Vanilla, Bergamot, Ylang-Ylang, Australian Sandalwood, Lemon

WOW! Carnation, clear as day. Straight out of the gate. Carnation and clove. I’ve been happily ambushed by a room full of carnations. It’s awesome. Just to be clear, I’m wearing the oil.

Into the heart I get loads of spices and resins. They don’t overtake the carnation but they do change the fragrance. It is more interesting that a pure soliflor. The roses come in gusts too.

Souvenir de Malmaison by DSH Perfumes (A Carnation Perfume) 2016

If you love Caron Bellodgia then this will send you into raptures. Souvenir de Malmaison is the next step. As sophisticated as Bellodgia was this is something so 21st century. Yes, it takes a goods look back at a 19th century style but does it bang up to date. I’ve worn the whole 2ml over a few days and love the whole ride. From beginning to end Souvenir de Malmaison has this wonderful structure and direction.

A unisex floral is always nice. Being the oil it’s a beautiful, low key scent that lasts for hours and hours. Any energetic movement seems to bring it back to life also. I can still smell a very light vanilla/clove next morning. Then I want to do it all again.

Bravo Dawn. This one is unbelievably gorgeous.

Does it sound good to any of you?
Portia xx


  • Sylvia says:

    I love SdM! Ordered a sample pack 2 years ago, as soon as they became more easily available in the EU. This was one of my picks. Thanks of reminding me, I will wear it again and see if it should go on my wishlist.

  • Dina C. says:

    I think my daughter’s boyfriend might love ths. He’s a big clove fan, but with a light touch. And a unisex floral wouldn’t throw him off either. I think I’d like it, too.

    • Portia says:

      Hey DinaC,
      The boys often love clove. I had something really clovey back a few years, VC&A Zanzibar. It was a crowd pleaser.
      Portia xx

  • Maggiecat says:

    Yes, yes it does sound lovely! I adore carnations, and roses, and will be seeking a sample of this.

    I’ve noticed that your plan to get rid of samples and decants seems to lead to our acquiring more of them. This doesn’t seem fair… ?

    • Portia says:

      HA! Sorry MaggieCat, yes, some of these beauties have gone on my Full Bottle list. Trading up in size is not really going to help my problem either.
      Portia xx

  • Musette says:

    this is one of my absolute favorites! It has a link to my vaunted L’Origan, as well – in fact, I think it’s closer to L’O than it is Bellodgia – but that may be because I prefer L’O to Bellodgia and I absolutely ADORE SdM.

    So there. 😉

  • AnnieA says:

    Does it sound good? Why yes, yes it does. DSH is pretty hard to get over this way, but I will see what I can do.

  • March says:

    Oh, this sounds absolutely wonderful, I would love it. I remember going on a carnation bender a few years ago … I think I liked Floris Malmaison as well? Can’t remember the others. The Caron base can be a bit musty to/on me, so I didn’t love Bellodgia as much as I thought I would. I bet a lot of people don’t even realize carnations have that awesome smell.

    • Portia says:

      Maybe they associate carnations with the awful carnation vase water that develops after a few days. GAH! Gross.
      Portia xx

  • cinnamon says:

    Carnation is such an underrated note (when done well). This goes on to sample list.

  • Suzanne DuPage says:

    I definitely want to try SdeM ! I am so sorry my aunts are no longer here as Bellodgia (which you mention farther down in the posting) was one of the perfumes they raved about. They could not remember who made it and I wondered if the aunties had confused it with the Las Vegas hotel. (Are they spelled the same ?)
    Wish I had seen your March 2020 posting discussing Bellodigia when it initially came out, but did enjoy reading it today.
    Both of the articles put a big smile on my face. Thanks so much !

    • Portia says:

      Hey Suzanne,
      Bellodgia was a Caron fragrance, carnation forward, from 1927.
      Bellagio is the Vegas hotel who also have a perfume line started last year.
      Easy mistake,
      Portia xx

  • Tom says:

    Dawn is brilliant.

    I’ve not tried this one (goodness knows why) but I will need to seek it out.