Oud and Santal by Cartier

Hi Posse, You already know how much I love the Cartier premium range Les Heures de Cartier if you’ve been reading for a while. Onward from that range they’re in house nose Mathilde Laurent has been signing off on a broader range built around oud. Oud and Santal is from the 2016 release in this range. The first came in 2014.

Last year I bought a set of travels from a seller on FB here in Oz. I think they’d arrived just before we went on a vacation and had been put away. They had sat untouched in a box of samples and travels. I’ve just rediscovered them while doing New Idea 2023 and rummaging through stuff. Seeing this gorgeous little bottle got me all excited. Truth be told I think the travel is more gorgeous that the FB. I’m sniffing and wafting it today and sharing the experience with you all.

Oud and Santal by Cartier

Oud & Santal by Cartier

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Sandalwood, Agarwood (Oud)

I’d like to first comment on the steep rise in prices of many premium lines. Seriously, I’m pretty much out of the market now. AU$495 is well beyond my comfortable spend even for the very good stuff. Especially at only 75ml. That’s a LOT of cash, and AUD$6.60/ml. I remember when that was buying extrait kinda price. Now CHANEL Gardenia extrait is over AUD$22.ml. The world has gone crazy.

Minty, band-aid oud with a dark medicinal sweetness. Not in a big confrontational way. It is a very company friendly oud, I think it would fit well for wafting through an art exhibition or something fun with friends. There’s that interesting oily/fishy/metallic note that must be a particular note that niche loves. It always catches my attention because it runs right along the knifes edge of gorgeous and disgusting. I’m constantly drawn to my arm trying to make up my mind. It’s part of an amber construct, I think. It may also be part of the medicinal oud structure. Like sucking a cold wet slightly oily spoon.

Oud & Santal by Cartier

The Oud and Santal sandalwood never hits that creamy woods we so often associate with it in perfumery. Here it is stark and lightly eucalypt minty and mineralic, like the opening of Australian sandalwood. Much less cuddly and far more dark. It’s a very interesting treatment. I like it a lot but can’t imagine this getting the same amount of wear here as Santal+++ or Samsara.

Dry down is a cool, metallic oud/wood combo that remains aloof all the way to dry down.

Surrender To Chance has some of this series but not Oud and Santal.

Have you, would you, try Oud and Santal?
Portia x

  • Annea says:

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  • Musette says:

    that’s a terrifying pricepoint! I remember having a moose fit when I bought Brilliante – and it wasn’t nearly as expensive as the later Heures. At those prices they need to cook dinner and clean my house, as well as smell perfectly PERFECT!!!

  • Maggiecat says:

    Sadly, oud is one of those notes I try to avoid – I just don’t care for it. Those years it was EVERYWHERE saved me a lot of money, I can tell you. And speaking of money – I find myself checking prices before I even spring for a sample nowadays. No sense falling in love with something that, barring a winning lottery ticket, this retired teacher could never afford.

  • alityke says:

    I’m looking for a lightweight, medicinal, bandaid oud, but this is not the oud I’m searching for. Sorry but £325 brought out my inner Yorkshire Yoda. HOW MUCH????
    Buying Papillon Hera gave me palpitations but I ADORE her & Hera is an Extrait

  • Maya says:

    I have tried but oud is not for me. The only time it’s doable is when it’s extremely light or cleaned up synthetic. Prices are crazy and unnecessary. Long ago on APJ someone mentioned the book “Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster”. I got it. It’s fascinating and eye-opening and reveals (proves) the absurdity and pure greed of it all.

  • Dina C. says:

    I completely agree with you, Portia, on the prices of high-end fragrance lines. They’re really out of reach now, which is a pity. I can remember when the smaller bottles of Chanel Les Exclusifs were under $100 and affordable. No more! As for oud, I have yet to find an oud scent that plays nicely with my migraine-sensitive head. Love reading your description. Thanks for a great review.

  • March says:

    I would not love this … when oud became big in perfumery years ago I was as shocked as if fish sauce had. I can take a bit in the background but not too much. HOWEVER that bottle is absolutely stunnnnnninggggg.

  • MMKinPA says:

    I have never been an oud lover. But I do agree with you on the prices – the luxury perfume world is a little insane. (I suppose you could say that about any segment of the luxury market these days…). I have never been much of a “splurger”, though – I agonize over any purchase over about $100 (my upcoming kitchen renovation is giving me the twitches daily!)

    • Portia says:

      HA! Yes a kitchen is well more than $100. Good luck with it MMKinPA. My fingers, toes, eyes and legs are crossed for you.
      Portia xx

  • cinnamon says:

    This sounds quite interesting but I don’t think my low body temp would do it any favours. And the price point. Oy. I remember feeling a bit uneasy when I dropped £110 on an SL Rose de Nuit belle jar over a decade ago. But it was so beautiful. And there was the £250 on 30ml of Shalimar perfume for that significant birthday. But, again, it was love and somehow I could see my way to that. But, in general, I’m doing travel sizes and decants at this point. It would be hard for me to see my way to something over £150 — and it would have to be sublime.

    • Portia says:

      Cinnamon, I hear you.
      I’m not averse to dropping some $$$ but it really is starting to price me out of the market.
      How much do you adore those splurges though? They are truly special moments immortalised in scent.
      Portia xx

  • Tom says:

    At $355 for 74ml (2.5 Oz) I’m thinking I’ll pass.

    • Portia says:

      HA! Yeah Tom, they are bloody expensive. At an increased price to AUD$520 since writing the article I’m glad to have this travel but won’t be repurchasing a bottle when it’s empty.
      The money they want for probably $25 of juice is ridiculous nowadays.
      Portia xx