Had a vaguely irritating trip into town for ortho appointment last week that included catching an earring in a favourite scarf, which now requires darning. Yet again, my ortho appointment was midday, when the teenage lemmings were … being lemmings (made sure to make next one when they are in classes). Sorry about the pic quality. In any case, if you’re thinking I am overreacting, well, this is what the whole of the centre of town is like from 11:45 till 2 pm. Really, lemmings.
Then, there was some sort of blockage (police or fire emergency) on the roundabout that leads to the road to go home. So, faffed around roads following other cars in the hope they would show me the way to where I needed to be (they did). All in, feh.
Oh, and my covid jab appointment was moved from this past Saturday morning to early Monday (ie, today) morning.
Plus, the temp dropped around 5 degrees Celsius overnight on Thursday and the heat turned itself on. It’s beautiful, the sun’s out … why do I feel befuddled? But, we’re due to enter a rainy period, which we actually need, as the county is under a drought warning. Yeah, southwest England, which historically got 40% more rain than London, is dry as a bone.
So, I bought some Serge Lutens samples after March’s post including L’Innommable because I am a sucker for the idea of dates and coffee.
We’ll do three today.
Number 1 is L’Innommable. The opening of this is Middle Eastern grocery on Atlantic Avenue in Brooklyn. Absolutely dates and coffee. And made me a bit sad and nostalgic for shopping at Sahadi and then walking home down Court or Smith Streets looking at the people and the shops. This has the Lutens base but the coffee note (or whatever it is) elevates it. As noted by March, released 2018. The notes list is Lutens as usual with no mention of coffee. But we use our imagination. A fair bit of cumin but under control so it doesn’t dominate. On me, this doesn’t develop much but it doesn’t matter because that date/coffee thing is so very perfect. I may have to go back to the sample place where I bought this and get a decant for cold weather. We shall see.
Number 2 is Perilleusement Votre. This is from 2020 and translates to variously Perilously Yours or Dangerously Yours. As ever, fine. Boy, do I love this for the first couple of hours. It’s so good on me. My brain did the fizzy thing of give me, give me. Rose and oud. That’s pretty much it. Plus saffron and leather playing vague support. This was among the Gratte-Ciel tall black bottle, very pricey range, but now appears to be available in a Belle Jar. The reviews I read weren’t terribly complimentary: saying this accord etc can be found in a number of places and done with more panache; not terribly original, etc, etc. And, sadly, after those couple of awesome hours it’s just cedar-ish and does that through the drydown. Pencil-shavings. So, I’ll enjoy spraying on my sample, sniffing my wrist and then forgetting about the fragrance two hours in.
Number 3 is revisiting Chergui after a couple of decades. Really, I’m sure it’s more than 10 years since I last sampled this. I recall a wonderful tobacco incense that didn’t quite work on me so I never bought a bottle. My current sample is basically cumin. Of course, there’s an undercurrent of the Lutens base in the line’s orientals, but the cumin is so dominant. I get having to reformulate to address new standards but this is sort of sad.
So, that’s me this week. Please, any suggestions for ‘better’ rose oud fragrances as I think I am now down that rabbit hole big time.
Pics: mine, pexels
Chergui wasn’t my thing.
Rose/Ouds? Again not my thing but looking at my Fragrantica wardrobe I have two. A bottle split from a good decade ago of Armani Privé Rose d’Arabie that is still so beautiful. Jo Malone London Velvet Rose & Oud is exactly what it says on the bottle with a touch of carnation/clove
I looked at the Armani Privees a while ago and meant to try them all. Never happened and now I don’t live near a shop that stocks them. I think I need to do more research and come up with 5 or 6 rose/ouds that get fulsome reviews — work from that.
Hehehehe more cumin in Chergui? Must investigate! I still have my old bottle here somewhere, why have I not worn it? Sad. But so glad you liked L’Innommable! And that I wasn’t imagining what I smelled. My decant’s almost empty, some decisions must be made … ugh all those kids. That would drive me RIGHT up the wall, them moving around in noisy herds. There was a fair amount of that (tour groups) in DC and I can’t say I miss it. Tourists here are wandering around not paying much attention to cars or where they’re going, but at least they’re in small groups.
Like you, I have an old bottle of Chergui that’s in the back of a dark cupboard. I will have to go dig it out.
Please bring it out. I am curious if the fragrances has really changed a lot or if I am missing something.
In this instance the cumin doesn’t help things. I recall Chergui being balanced and smoky. Not my sample.
Yeah, lemmings. I used to get very irritated by the tourists in NYC when I was on my lunch hour. Here, it’s the summer season and school hols that make me twitchy as we too are a ‘destination’. The kids though… They are completely oblivious. It’s strange.
Great reviews Cinnamon! I’m very nostalgic about Chergui because it was everybody’s darling back in 2008 when I started my perfume hobby. Luca Turin also used it during a lecture I attended at the French Embassy many years ago. March was there too. Anyway, he talked about how it was the scent of hay to him, but how people could perceive it so differently. L’Innommable sounds like a perfect match for fall and winter.
I think I am nostalgic about Chergui too — from when it was being talked about a lot. I do remember it smelling differ. Anyway, was Turin a good speaker?
Yes, he was very educational, very science-y. I really like his writing in essays and reviews, so it was an enjoyable time.
I imagined he would be a good show. I liked the first Guide a lot. I bought a newer one and found it less engaging though.
I have a very embarrassing favourite Rose/Oud combo Cinnamon. It’s Midnight Oud by Juliette Has A Gun. FragranceNet has the 8ml travel for about £10. It’s so satisfying, a little rough and ready.
Portia xx
SpaceNK has jhag. Will check this out next time I am in town.