Vero Kern Curated Sampler: Jicky By Aimé Guerlain 1889

Vero Kern Curated Inspiration Sample Set

Hello to the POSSE!! Portia from AustralianPerfumeJunkies with you again. I have been going through the Perfume Posse Perfume 101 and Perfume 201 slowly but surely, there are still some I haven’t sniffed, a few I haven’t understood and a couple that make no sense at all. That’s OK because everyone’s sniffer is different. Have you had a chance to go through them? They’re an informative couple of lists with some great fragrances on them, though nowadays Meteorites by Guerlain is NOT cheap as chips! So it’s interesting to me when a perfumer, and one as worshiped as Vero Kern, goes to curate a best of inspiration and wear list that has four fragrances, only four! It says in the blurb that they are also fragrances that Vero Kern wears. I wanted to smell them as a set because these 4 fragrances are not the ones I expected to see on the list. Amazing and revered scents though they are I was surprised by their inclusion as the Vero Kern Curated Inspiration Sample Set.

They are

  • Guerlain Vol de Nuit EDT (Jacques Guerlain)
  • Guerlain Jicky EDP (Aimé Guerlain)
  • Shocking Schiaparelli (Jean Carles)
  • Piguet Fracas EDP (Germaine Cellier)

Jicky EdP By Aimé Guerlain 1889

Jicky FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

BaseNotes gives these featured accords:
Top: Rosewood (elsewhere lavender or rosemary), bergamot, lemon and mandarin
Heart: Orris, jasmine, patchouli, rose, vetiver
Base: Leather, amber, civet, tonka, incense, benzoin

That opening shot of warm herbal citrus that is reminiscent of Shalimar but less sweet, more powdery and less feminine. The citrus stays so long that we are almost into the dry down before I notice the flowers at all, the flowers come in and go quietly. Soft powdery woods with an amber sweetness but little leather or civet on my skin in the dry down that is wispy and ethereal, I think vintage versions probably are far more robust in the end and would have more than the 5 hours I get from this EdP. There is a skeric of skin scent that waves mysteriously over my skin but really all fragrance is gone, just a whispered reminder that I was once fragrant.

Titania CollectorsPrintsPhoto Stolen CollectorsPrints

How did I feel wearing this modern Jicky EdP, I felt grown up, but young, perfect and elegant, Daisy from The Great Gatsby perhaps, maybe a little more ethereal like Titania, Queen of the Fairies? Certainly I felt lavish and historical, maybe Elizabeth Taylor in her heyday? It could be all of these and none. Transported on wings of delight? No, not really. I smelled wonderful and beautiful for a while and now I smell like me again and want to smell like that again so SPRITZ …….. Aaaaggghhhh ………… so good …………… smelllllllll sooooooooo gooooooood The second layer is much more interesting, lasts longer and has an almost visible base thrumming beneath it. The civet and leather have shown themselves almost from the start and Jicky is a colourful madame of a perfume, much more what I was expecting, hoping and wishing to smell. My hint, carry a decant in your purse for a 4 hour respritz and you will smell like a Vintage Glamour Girl, or guy.

ElizabethTaylor Posh24Photon Stolen Posh24

Though this is only the second perfume to have used synthetics, and the first to use more than one, Jicky could have been made today by some super talented niche perfumer.

Further reading BoisDeJasmin and then for fun in 2007 ThePerfumePosse crew all sniff the Jicky EdT
SurrenderToChance has the Vero Kern Curated Inspiration Sample Set starting at $11 for a 1ml set but I splurged and got the 3ml spray set for $32
SurrenderToChance also have a heap of different Jicky ages, strengths and formulations

Thanks for meandering through my fragrant thoughts today, come visit me and the crew at AustralianPerfumeJunkies, we love visitors and are continuing the conversation over there.
See you next week,
Portia xx

21 Comments

  1. Just had to comment on the photo of the divine Liz Taylor. Was there ever anyone more beautiful? I haven’t tried Jicky in years; maybe it’s time to revisit. Thanks for the review!

  2. At first, I didn’t know what to make of Jicky because it smelled a whole lot like Shalimar without the vanilla. Now I understand it a little better and why it’s still around. But still don’t wear it a lot because I already have a full bottle of Shalimar and can’t quite justify a full bottle.

    • I understand your point Eldarwen22. If you knew how much Shalimar was hidden around this house you would probably be distressed. I would like a Jicky Parfum though.
      Portia xx

  3. I’d like to try some vintage Guerlains. It’s on my list of things to do.
    Not really a fan of Jicky. I think it’s okay.
    Fracas I found overbearing. I could try it again though.
    Shocking I’ve never tried.
    But Vol de Nuit is growing on me. To the point where I think I need it.

    • Hey Elia,
      I bought the Propeller Bottle while in Paris recently. The box is still in its plastic and I wear a decant that I’ve had for some time, sparingly. Just having it in my home feels like lavishness and I don’t need to wear it to be able to smell that extraordinary fragrance, but one day soon I will have a very special Opening Ceremony.
      Portia x

      • A gorgeous bottle!!
        I don’t believe in postponing things too long 🙂
        Open it soon 🙂

        I’ve only seen and tried the most recent edt.

  4. You know what I love best about La Liz’s beauty? It always looked HUMAN! They couldn’t brush out all the imperfections that, somehow, made her even more perfect! I adore her emeralds – she had a Bulgari ‘zigzag’ bracelet that I would’ve killed an entire city for!
    Not a lover of Jicky, alas. The lavender gives me the ooks. But I adore the other three!
    But not as much as I adore you, dearest Portia! Sigh. only a week or so to go…and we’ll be together, eyelashes abounding!

    xoxoxoA

  5. Great post, dear Portia. Alas, the one and only time I tried Jicky, I smelled dirty feet. I kid you not! So it’s a no-no for me, but I like the VdN and would love to re-try Shocking. Thanks!

  6. I’ve not tried Jicky or Shocking, but I did wear Fracas mostly regularly some years ago(until it began to give me headaches). A couple months ago I splurged and bought a small bottle of vintage Vol de Nuit extrait. That fragrance totally impresses me. I haven’t worn it for several weeks because I’m trying to make it last. If I see more for sale, I’ll buy it if I can come up with the money. And, Liz Taylor, what a beauty!

  7. This is a great list! I have VK Onda, so I’m not surprised that VK wears such bold classics. I love VdN, and have a healthy respect for the rest. And I just popped over to Australian Perfume Junkies and am still feeling the rush from that Matt Damon/Jodie Foster sci-fi trailer, the delightful French AIDS spot and 007 on the beach. Where else is there so much eye/nose/brain candy on one page?

    • Heya NozKNoz,
      We like to mix it up over there so everyone has a couple of things floating around their heads. I’m so glad you dropped in,
      Portia xx
      What about Daniel Craig?!

  8. Jicky absolutely hates me.The last time I tried it was at Saks about7 or 8 years ago. I tried the special edition and really wanted to love it but my BFF and even the SA concurred: it smelled bad on me.

    I so wanted it to be good: I wanted to wear it and tell people when they complemented me on it that it was “zjee-kee”..

    • Ha Ha HA!! I love that you wanted to say ZJeeckeeeeeee. Ha Ha HA!! No wonder it hated you, it thought you were overlooking its amazing scent for its name and felt mortified enough to turn NASTY!!
      Portia xx

  9. I have vintage Jicky. I appreciate it but that’s all. I get a lot of lavender and can still smell it the next morning. I have both the old and new versions of Fracas and love them both, but the older one is more complex and i prefer it. The reformulated one is much more linear on me. I don’t remember Shocking and never tried VdN. Will have to sample them both.
    I think Elizabeth Taylor was the most beautiful woman ever in movies and admired the fact that she had the courage to live her life without caring what anyone thought.

    • Yep, I’m not sure it always brought Elizabeth Taylor, or those around her, happiness but she was her own woman and lucky enough to be born so beautiful. What a woman! She was my hero for many years, still is in some ways.
      Portia xx

  10. J’adore Jicky! Somehow more crisp and less overpowering than Shalimar. Finally got a full bottle of the EDP for Christmas and it’s in heavy rotation.

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