When it comes to fragrance, it seems that the purer, stronger or more concentrated the better is frequently the rule of thumb. The pure parfum or extrait is seen the standard for how the scent ideally should smell and is the ultimate form of scent for perfumistas.
This was most certainly the case for me recently, as I shared with you all in a recent blog post about finding love with vintage Mitsouko parfum. We tend to think that if the EDP is good, then the parfum / extrait will be great, right? But what about when that’s not the case for you?
Up until now, I really couldn’t think of any examples in my perfumista life. But I’ve just experienced the first “less is best” scent on my skin.
From the moment I first tried it several years back, I adored Roja Dove’s Diaghilev. Its lovely, vintage-y vibe just hit the spot for me and a little dab of it put me into heaven. So when I recently had the opportunity to try the parfum, I jumped at it.
In the spirit of experimentation, I did a wrist-to-wrist comparison using the extrait on one arm and the original EDP on the other. And although the extrait was fine, there was a little note in there (tobacco, cumin, something?), that kept pinging my nose and putting it slightly off balance throughout a good portion of the scent. The EDP, however, was as dependably smooth and beautiful as ever. Eventually, the scents merged into a similar late middle and drydown, so in the end, no harm, no foul.
But I was surprised, as I was certain the extrait would have had the angels descending in a heavenly chorus for me. Although truth be told, I probably should be grateful. The Diaghilev pure parfum is so pricey that I ought to be singing a hundred “Hallelujahs” that I wasn’t wild about it and dreaming up ways to somehow afford it. (Can I swing a second or even third job? Mortgage the house?)
In all fairness, I do remember reading somewhere that Roja Dove had changed Diaghilev between the strengths, tweaking it somewhat, so that’s likely what happened. And the tweaked parfum just didn’t suit my skin as well as the original version, the EDP which was launched in 2010. Not that the EDP is affordable either, when you can find it, but all things considered, I can live with my decant and be pretty happy.
What about you? Have you had any instances in which the parfum or extrait didn’t please you as much as the EDP or even the EDT of the same scent?