Hey Perfume Posse! Back in 2014 my mate Michael and I did a tour of Europe. Jin was starting a new job so couldn’t get away for 4 weeks. One of the amazing things we did was meet the men from Oriza L Legrand in their Paris shop. One of the things I love about Franck and Hugo is their honesty about recreations, that they are creating as close to with modern materials. At the time Cuir de l’Aigle Russe (Russian Eagle Leather) hadn’t been released so we missed it in our sniffings. Fortunately it’s available in their very reasonably priced Sample Pack.
Cuir de l’Aigle Russe by Oriza L. Legrand 1892
(21st Century Recreation)
Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Coriander, Lavender, Davana, Italian bergamot, Prickly cedar, Styrax
Heart: Bourbon geranium, May rose, Immortelle, Cardamom, Styrax, Indonesian patchouli
Base: Labdanum, Frankincense, Musk, Tonka bean, Sandalwood, Amber, Benzoin, Vetiver
Ohhhhhh! Lavender sugar and dry wood dominate the opening with a hint of animal and a fluffy, billowing clouds in the sky powder. Cuir de l’Aigle Russe smells like perfect peaches and cream skin looks. Or like putting your finger into loose powder feels. Let me be clear though, this doesn’t feel like the powdery scents of our grandmas. This is a modern, dynamic, exciting powder ready to spring into action.
The geranium, rose and styrax take centre stage for the heart. The spiciness of the geranium, clear sweet rose and funky styrax creating a very interesting triad with an ever-present powdery softness. Like nothing I ever smelled before. Underneath patchouli/labdanum plays base note, holding everything else on the ground and keeping it deep and weighty.
Resins, amber and a musk that smells to me of animal rather than white, could it be the labdanum and styrax giving it a brown feral quality sweetened buy the tonka? Not sure but it smells excellent.
If you hate powdery fragrances I don’t think that Cuir de l’Aigle Russe will change your mind. Maybe if you hate powder but quite like a hint of skank then this could indeed be one to try.
Have you tried any of the Oriza Legrand fragrances?
Portia also writes for Australian Perfume Junkies.