Hey Posse. Remember a couple of months ago Tom did a post on Serge Lutens’ Poivre Noir? Well colour me lemming. I’m not sure why but the release of Poivre Noir kind of passed me by. I knew it was out but it held no interest. Oh yes, another pepper perfume. Yawn. As if you didn’t already know: Tom is so bloody eloquent and I’m so bloody gullible. I was doing an order and guess what made it into the cart and then past the checkout point? Yep, you guessed correctly. Here I am with 50ml, finding it incredibly more-ish and thought it best to share my experience.
Poivre Noir by Serge Lutens 2022
Serge Lutens gives these featured accords:
Black pepper from Madagascar, Nutmeg, Cedar
It’s really warming up here in Sydney. We are having 30°C+/86f+ days and today while having lunch with mates at the Sydney Fish Markets I think the heat overwhelmed me. Instead of going on to have drinks with other mates and then see my beautiful and talented god-daughter Lola in her end of year play, it was home to loads of cool water and a lie down. Tragic.
While I know you have hit cold weather in the Northern Hemisphere, Poivre Noir could be the weird assed lean into the cool with a heating pay off that you never knew you needed.
First spritz gives us PEPPER! Just cracked. Also bell peppers, freshly sliced. ALSO chilli and ginger. The opening is a bright, scratchy, cool and wet delight that has “freshie” mixed with “warming” in such a surprising way. Poivre Noir is an aquatic, but NOT like any water perfume you’ve ever tried. It does wink at the 1990s version of the genre but races past it in sophistication and energy.
The woods, when they arrive are green and twiggy, not the usual pencil shavings expected and more like fir or even pine UNTIL about an hour in. Suddenly the pencil shavings arrive and then manage to weave in and through the heart to dry down.Still with that cool, moist breeze blowing off a lake vibe. Invigorating and so elegant.
Totally unisex but leaning towards a masculine tradition. Honestly, it’s a bit too far fetched for the run of the mill guy. This needs a thoughtfully presented human who skirts the edges of fashion and perfume-ista. Love the ride.
I bought a 50ml tester from FragranceNet but at time of writing they only have the 100ml currently. Still under US$80.
So, have Tom and I convinced you?
Portia xx
This sounds more like a like an Interesting Smell than a perfume-perfume, and I am veering to the latter these days. Since it’s from 2022, though, glad to hear that it’s at least, what’s the word, coherent?
We are having miserable, near-sleety weather, so I am imagining that you and yours are Drinking White Wine in the Sun (underneath an umbrella)
HA! AnnieA we are loving the warmth and drinking wine over lunch and dinner, rarely al fresco but does the covered verandah count?
Portia xx
Take care of yourself in the heat. Remember we T2s can be more susceptible.
Recent SLs haven’t tickled my fancy other than Ecrin de Fumee.
I did not know that Alityke.
Ecrin de Fumée is really good. I think I first tried it with Cinnamon in Harvey Nichs a couple of years ago. MMMMMMM
Portia xx
Be careful with that heat!
I am glad to be inspiration but if next time you wouldn’t write so compellingly I’d appreciate it. I’d compare better..
HA HA HA HA HA HA HA!
Tom, pot – kettle
Spent most of today indoors, walked the dogs early and later.
Portia xx
Careful in that heat! This sounds really compelling, but not “me” — I appreciate the thoughtful review! It’s gotten cooler (still not cold, relatively speaking) and breezy and I’m leaning into syrupy wonders like Alahine.
Hey March,
Alahine is so gorgeous. I wear it all year.
Portia xx
Oh, look after yourself in the heat. Last September, when I was travelling, did half a day in Vienna on the way to elsewhere. It was above 35 degrees. One thing I can say in Vienna’s favour is they had sprinklers set up in the city centre you could walk through.
This is a I’m really not that interested. Such is life. I put on Heretic Black Salt today (salt water taffy etc). I have no clue why. We’re back to pouring rain and grey. But sun is supposed to emerge tomorrow…
Yes…no…possibly…maybe…don’t know. I have an interesting relationship with Serge Lutens. It’s either all or nothing, no middle ground, except for Santal Majuscule. It’s a great easy wear. I finally tried Fleurs d’ Oranger. It’s a big yes. De Profundis was gorgeous until I put it on, so a big no. I can’t guess how it will go, but I will try Poivre Noir if I come across a sample.
I absolutely love De Profundis… but the circumstances have to be perfect:
It has to be a very grey day ( dead, swirling leaves are a plus)
I have to be either in a bespoke tailored outfit or something magically drifting. Gunmetal is the color of choice
I have to be in a ‘drifting’ mood. No bustling about… just … drifting
That scent demands a LOT!
If I still have the sample, I’ll play with it some more. Winter provides some great grey days, autumn does too. Thanks.
LOVE Santal Majuscule Maya and have some ml left in a 10ml decant that never gets the spritz even though I really love it.
Portia xx
I haven’t paid attention to anything from Serge Lutens since he came out with La Fille Berlin. I used to be able to find Arabie at a reasonable price but that is a bell jar and most of what I want from his line are in bell jar form. If the bell jars were a whole lot more reasonably priced, I would have probably kept up with Serge Lutens a little better.
I had no idea that Arabie went to Bell Jar Eldarwen22. That’s bloody annoying.
Portia xx
Yikes! I hope you adjust to the heat quickly – I know that feeling, when it gets HOT!HOT!HOT! all at once
Reading this post… Poivre Noir sounds intriguing… but the notes sound similar to Poive Samarcande…with which I have a complicated relationship… so… mebbe(?)
Yeah, today is WAY hot Musette. We are well over 100f, but fortunately it is dry heat.
If pepper is complicated for you then this will be your bette noir.
Portia xx