Trayee by Neela Vermeire Creations

Hi Posse. Trayee has been heralded as a modern day masterpiece by many. Most famously Christopher Chong the ex-Creative Director at Amouage. In fact he wished it was part of the Amouage oeuvre. High praise indeed.

You know when a perfume house brings out three or more fragrances at a time? You’ll smell all three and decide your favourite, yeah? Obviously my favourite from the initial offering of NVC was Mohur. Moving forward that is your favourite scent, from that set of the houses offerings. Rarely will you go back and smell the rest, what need? With all the new things coming out every week who has the time or skin real estate to waste on things already poo pooed? Trayee proves that sometimes it pays great dividends…….

Neela Vermeire was a hardcore perfumista before she ever became a creative director. She was heavily involved in the MUA years and then went on to host fragrant tours of Paris. Whenever we go to Serge Lutens together she is greeted like a long lost friend and treated like royalty. We have been firm friends since we caught up in 2013 while Jin and I were on our first international holiday together. We chat regularly on the phone and love to meet wherever we can in the world. Neela is well known as the most exacting customer of Bertrand Duchaufour and her fragrances reflect the amount of time and money spent to get it exactly right.

Trayee by Neela Vermeire Creations 2012

Trayee by Neela Vermeire Creations 2012

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Basil, Cannabis, Elemi resin, Ginger, Blackcurrant, Cinnamon
Heart: Clove, Jasmine sambac, Cardamom, Saffron, Sandalwood, Egyptian jasmine
Base: Amber, Oakmoss, Haitian vetiver, Java vetiver, Myrrh, Mysore sandalwood, Oud, Patchouli, Vanilla, Frankincense, Cedar

Obviously I’m a bit biased but Neela’s NVC perfume collection speaks for itself, and Trayee is a perfect example of how deep, intricate, flamboyant and elegant her fragrances are.

Trayee by Neela Vermeire Creations 2012

How does Trayee smell? The opening is a sweet and spicy mix of greenery, herbs and resins. I’ve never been able to pinpoint the sweetener but it may be the blackcurrant. There is none of the screechiness I associate with the note, this is a smooth and luxurious open. Through the heart the creamy sandalwood and resins shine next to a heavily spiced but clean jasmine bouquet, no breath or sweaty references at all. The heart lasts on me for hours before I really start to notice a darkening of cool, smoky incense that reminds me a bit of Lapsang Souchong tea and I also get wafts of citrus at this point. It’s a magnificent tapestry that cannot be seen all at once. Slowly Trayee fades and after about 6 hours I’m left with a very soft focus woodsy incense. On clothes it lasts till the next wash.

Do you know Trayee?
Portia xx

  • JOHN says:

    too much amber, not for me.

  • Ariel says:

    Yes…and no? I have most of her scents (maybe not Pichola?) and they (along with most of the Ineke scents) are what I am focused on learning about this month (blessed be samples). So lovely to have everyone else’s experiences listed here 🙂

    • Portia says:

      YAY for samples Ariel.
      WOW! You have two superb houses to go through this month. Vastly different but both feel created with so much love.
      Portia xx

  • Patty says:

    I love all of her perfumes, and I just love her, too – kind, intelligent, creative. I don’t know her like you do, but every time I talk to her, she impresses me all over again as just a wonderful human being and a perfume creating genius!

    • Portia says:

      She is definitely all those things.
      One day we need to meet in Paris and go visit everyone.
      When we are allowed to travel again.
      Imagine the Posse in Europe?
      Portia xx

  • Filomena says:

    I love Neela Vermiere’s perfumes and own them all in the EDP form. Trayee has always been one of my favorites.

  • March says:

    Well that sounds absolutely DELIGHTFUL

    • Portia says:

      Hey March,
      You never tried the Neela Vermeire Creations? I think you would definitely find a couple of things to love in there.
      Portia xx

  • Jennifer S says:

    My little sample of Trayee is almost gone. This is one beautiful scent I’ll tell ya! Wouldn’t mind a fb and now I’m curious about her other offerings as well sooo…maybe the discovery set?!

  • Tara C says:

    Neela is lovely, I met her in the mid-2000’s by taking one of her perfume tours. My first favourite of the collection was Trayee, then Mohur. Lately my favourite is Niral.

  • rosarita313 says:

    I am a Duchaufour fangirl and I adore Trayee. I was lucky enough to win a blog drawing years ago of a little bottle with samples of Mohur and Bombay Bling and all three are fabulous. I’m not familiar with Neela’s perfumes besides the first three but I’ll get there. Thanks for the reminder of her wonderful line up.

    • Portia says:

      Hey Rosarita313,
      Lucky you. The first three are so iconic.
      I’m finding though nowadays the one I wear most is Rahele. Just as faceted yet lighter. freer and more day to day wearable. It’s beauty is a little less forthright so I can concentrate on my day.
      Portia xx

      • Musette says:

        I know just what you mean, Portia, about being able to concentrate on your day – awhile back Patty and I were talking with Mindy Yang about Amouage Lyric – and Patty said she found it difficult to wear on a daily because it was so beautiful and so compelling that she found it hard to focus on anything else. I’m wearing it right now and … yep! It. Is. Glorious. But it’s taking up a whole lotta head & heart space. I think it’s better worn in the evening. Ymmv???


  • Dina C. says:

    I really like Bertrand Duchaufour’s way with perfume, whether it’s for L’Artisan, Eau de Italie or Neela Vermeire. He’s so prolific I haven’t sniffed anywhere near a quarter of his offerings, but they’re so interesting. I believe I was gifted a smidge of this one when it first came out, and I remember being impressed. That list of notes is Everything But the Kitchen Sink! Thanks for a great reminder, Portia!

    • Portia says:

      Hey DinaC,
      Oh yes Bertrand Duchaufour is very clever. I also think he works best when heavily curated. My two all time favourites from him are Mohur and Seville a l’Aube. Both directed by very discerning women.
      Portia xx

      • rosarita says:

        Seville a l’Aube! My summer favorite. I didn’t know it was a Duchaufour, no wonder I love it so much!

  • Musette says:

    when I was first introduced to NVC I was positive it would be Mohur for me – all the way. Then I fell, HORD, for Bombay Bling (the most perfect scent for a -20F February night, trust me) … then… Trayee.. Trayee slowly.. but surely… stepped up and stole the show. Of all the NVCs Trayee is the one bottle I have drained – and will buy again. There is that indefinable ‘something’ (which you illustrate so well in your wonderful post, Portia) that causes me to come back to it time and again – and also one that I truly enjoy wearing great lashings of (normally I don’t soak myself). It’s a plush, seamless perfume that showcases Neela’s sharp intelligence, thoughfulness and insistence on perfection.

    Oh. And did I mention how much I like it? 😉


    • Portia says:

      Musette! I never knew you first fell for Bombay Bling. That’s Jin’s choice from the range. He is nearing the end of his second bottle. He even wore it for our wedding and it gets worn a LOT on holidays, aside from everyday wear.
      Did I mention how much I love you?
      Portia xx

      • Musette says:

        Love you more, babysnakes! BBling, spritzed on after a hot shower (just before bed) on a freezing cold February night… omgosh! Transports me right to Holi!


  • Cinnamon says:

    I was thinking about the NVC perfumes last night so had a wander round the website. Then, today, I had a look for the fragrances on online shops of London perfumeries. Nada. I know they were offered by Les Senteurs and Roullier White in the past, and maybe even the Jovoy in Mayfair, but doesn’t appear to be the case any more. I’ve not sampled Trayee — just the first three which I thought were all wonderful. My fave is Bombay Bling — just because the smell of it makes me supremely happy. Thinking I might have to get the discovery set from the website …

  • Bee says:

    My favourite from Neela. That incense in the drydown is heavenly.