Eau Soleil by Parfum de Nicolai

Hi Posse, Eau Soleil is by one of the most iconic modern perfumers; Patricia de Nicolai. She was shunned by her family at Guerlain for being a woman. The Guerlain story could have evolved so much differently if the old farts in charge had just had an ounce of vision. Do you think they’d have had to sell to LVMH? My money is on the ability to retain it, at the very least. Not knocking LVMH by the way, they have kept the long sinking Guerlain ship limping along as best they can and I thank them for it. Life would be very different with no Guerlain to follow, love, loathe, reminisce about and adore.

Anyway, let’s talk about the joy of PdN having the gumption and talent to go alone and create a successful niche house, chock full of beautiful fragrances. Also, let’s applaud her good sense in offering 30ml and 100ml bottles. GENIUS!

Eau Soleil by Parfum de Nicolai

Eau Soleil

Parfumo givres these featured accords:
Top: Lemon, Mandarin orange, Paraguayan petigrain, Lemon petitgrain, Mugwort, White thyme
Heart: Neroli, Jasmine, Ylang-ylang, Orange blossom absolute
Base: Patchouli, Galbanum, Amber,

Pictured above is my 30 ml Eau Soleil. The juice has darkened and it’s about half gone but it still smells freaking awesome.

I know you are heading towards (or are in) the colder months up in the northern hemisphere. Don’t let that stop you from reminiscing about warmth or wearing your tropical inspired fragrances. Sometimes even the smell of summer is enough to get you through the dark days.

The most dreamy citrus amalgamation pours out on opening spritz . Quickly it is backed by the smooth white flowers and hints of greenery. So uplifting. This early waft continues into the heart, getting greener and more floral. Eau Soleil is the scent of sunlit summer weekend afternoons, perfectly named.

Later, when we hit the heart proper, there is still some citrus, greenery and a lightly tropical floral vibe. All this is undercut by the cool mossy green of galbanum and a softly earthy patchouli that become more prominent as we reach the depths of dry down. My experience throws very little in the way of vanilla type amber but there is a lovely resinousness. Eau Soleil then fades to gone.

Totally unisex with moderate longevity and sillage.

Ann wrote about Eau Soleil back in 2013 here on Perfume Posse.

What is your favourite Parfums de Nicolai?
Portia xx

  • Diana/Annatar says:

    Hey Portia! I actually thought Eau Soleil was a new release, never heard of this one; somehow it’s never spoken about in the Russian fragosphere. I love Fig Tea, Vanille Tonca, NY Intense, and Vie de Chateau Intense (the latter one is more of a “like”: it’s a new acquisition, I haven’t figured it out yet). I used to wonder about what Guerlain would be like should they have kept Patricia to themselves, but I guess, they would have to sell out anyway.

    • Portia says:

      Someone mentioned it might be DCd, maybe it’s only a limited release? Not sure Dianna.
      I have a 15ml travel of Fig Tea but it has been ignored. Time to grab it out and give it some summer loving.
      Portia xx

      • Diana/Annatar says:

        Yeah, Fig Tea is perfect for summer! Get it out and give it some proper skin time ūüôā
        Diana xx

  • Musette says:

    Snap! I was just thinking about Nicolai this morning, as I spritzed my silk (yes’m – silk. cool in Summer, warm in Winter) sheets with the last dregs of Maharanih. My bedroom smells delicious! But I was thinking about Guerlain’s short-sightedness, though I do believe they still would’ve sold (moneymoneymoneyMONEY, oh yeah!) .. anyhoo, my faves are Temps d’une Fete and Weekend (from back when it was Deauville). This, though? This Soleil sounds perfect for my lemon-loving self! xoxoxo

  • Dina C. says:

    Thanks for the review of Eau Soleil. I haven’t sniffed this one, which is too bad. You don’t have to sell me on PdN and her skill…just by some fabulous coincidence I happen to be wearing her Odalisque today!!! I love this, and boy is it great. The rare LotV that is strong and lasting.

  • Maya says:

    Eau Soleil sounds lovely. I am a great fan of scents of happy , warm days. Has this one been discontinued? My favorites are still Le Temps d’une F√™te and Un Coeur En Mai which she created for MDCI.

    • Portia says:

      Hey Maya,
      I don’t think it’s DCd but it well could be. Mine is a little older. It would surprise me though because I thought it was one of PdNs better sellers.
      Portia XX

  • March says:

    I love PdN scents and have several, I think my most beloved is Odalisque, although Fig-Tea is my most cheerful. I visited their small shop in London eons ago and had a blast.

    • Portia says:

      Hey March,
      I had a very original tall oval bottle of Odalisque, from Michael Edwards great clear out. So lovely, slightly funky citrus. YUM!
      Portia xx

  • Neva says:

    Eau Soleil I haven’t tried so far but there are a few PdN perfumes that I really adore. My favourite is Weekend, ever since it’s name was Weekend a Deauville, later Weekend in Normandy. The formulation may have changed slightly but it’s still the bitter type of green perfume in the vein of old chypres. I also have Cuir Cuba, a wonderful licorice, and Angelys Pear, the only fruity floral in my collection.

    • Portia says:

      Hey Neva,
      YES! I loved Deauville but by the time I purchased it was called Weekend. So wearable in almost any weather.
      Portia XX

  • MMKinPA says:

    I am a big fan of Nicola√Į. I have 12 bottles – not least because they offer the affordable 30ml size, hooray for those. I think for the price they are fantastic – great longevity and always interesting. I never tried Eau Soleil, sounds lovely. I think my favorite has to be Sacrebleu Intense – I get a lot of spicy stewed fruits which brings back a lovely childhood memory.

    • Portia says:

      Hey MMKinPA,
      YAY! I hope we would get some PdN lovers out of the woodwork.
      I have an old bottle of the Sacrebleu that gets a few wears each year.
      Portia XXXX