Innocence Lost? Detchema by Revillon

I heard of Detchema waaaay back in the 70’s when I read “Rosemary’s Baby” where it’s a major plot point (spoilers ahead for the three of you who never read the book, saw the movie, or have been outside)

Rosemary Woodhouse is a nice married girl who is going through a difficult pregnancy. She has unexplained pains, awful dreams, and begins to suspect that something is terribly, terribly wrong. One of the major twists is an innocent visit to her doctor (that her slightly too-helpful neighbors got her to see) that reinforcers her fear that perhaps there is a conspiracy of some sort against her and her baby, and that it may be far bigger than she thought.

“That smells nice,” Miss Lark Said, sniffing in Rosemary’s direction. “What is it?”

“It’s called ‘Detchema,'” Rosemary said.

“It’s a big improvement over your regular, if you don’t mind me saying.”

“That wasn’t a cologne,” Rosemary said. “It was a good luck charm. I threw it away”

“Good,” Miss Lark said. “Maybe the Doctor will follow your example”

Miss Lark then explains that sometimes the Doctor comes in smelling of the same good luck charm that Rosemary used to wear, a good luck charm given to her by her too-helpful neighbors. A good luck charm they had previously given to a girl in their care who suddenly committed suicide. A good luck charm filled with Tannis root, a bitter smelling herb that plays a big part in the plot of the book (and movie.)

Tannis root is, of course, a complete fiction. It was made up by Ira Levin. Detchema however is a real scent. It was created by Revillon (the furrier I believe) in 1953 and has the following notes (from fragrantica):

Top notes are Aldehydes, Hyacinth, Peach, Bergamot and Neroli

Middle notes are Carnation, Rose, Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang and Lily-of-the-Valley

Base notes are Orris Root, Sandalwood, Leather, Musk, Amber, Vetiver and Tonka Bean.

It also isn’t what I would have expected Rosemary to choose, at least the Rosemary played by Mia Farrow. That Rosemary seems so up-to-the-minute with her peds and Pucci prints and Vidal Sassoon haircut. I would have thought Caleche or Diorling, but upon sniffing it, it makes sense. Detchema does have the sparkly notes of aldehydes, peach, and neroli but then goes into comforting with the hyacinth, peach and lily before just settling into plush luxury of the drydown, which is like snuggling into an expensive fur coat. When thinking about it, I know when I am feeling stressed I don’t necessarily reach for the avant-garde or the light-and-fluffy. Sometimes I need the luxurious comfort of a Spiriteuse Double Vanille or the “Fu#$ with me and find out” armor of a Mitsouko. Detchema would be current enough in 1966 to still be relevant but as a “new look” era scent still retro and establishment enough to be comforting to a young woman in 1960’s New York (the “Is God Dead” era) facing a troubled marriage and a troubling pregnancy.

Is it good? Sure. It’s kind of the epitome of Quiet Good Taste. It’s not loud, it’s not showy; while feminine it also seems kind of, well, stalwart is the word that comes to mind, which may be why Ira Levin chose it for Rosemary. Do I need this? Nope. It’s very pretty but frankly my interest kind of began and ended with the mention in the book (which I highly recommend- both the book and the movie. Just not the sequels, literary or cinematic.) Do you? I got my deluxe spray thingy off eBay for like $6. Of course I have no idea whether this has any resemblance at all to the original. If you have any info to add please do so in the comments.

My bottle (pictured) was purchased off eBay. Photos are mine, and Wikimedia Commons.