Heya Perfume Posse! Portia from Australian Perfume Junkies with you again today. Jubilation XXV arrived in a small group of splits ordered from a buddy at Facebook Fragrance Friends, there are a few excellent splitters there and some good prices on bottles receiving too little attention in people’s Fragrant Wardrobes. Anyway, I got this in the mail and was madly trying to work out whether it was the guys or girls version, not that it matters for anything except getting the note lists and other reading etc. but sometimes you like to know where it’s pitched to get a feeling for what the house is trying to achieve. Jubilation XXV will be a perfect fragrance for those cooler nights that occur in both Spring and Autumn, depending on where you are.
Jubilation XXV by Bertrand Duchaufour for Amouage 2007
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Orange, coriander, labdanum, tarragon, olibanum, blackberry
Heart: Guaiac wood, cinnamon, bay leaf, honey, orchid, rose, clove, celery seeds
Base: Opoponax, patchouli, myrrh, cedar, musk, oakmoss, ambergris, agarwood (oud), immortelle
Right, So this is the men’s version of Jubilation. Bertrand Duchaufour was in charge and the open is big herbal, resinous, woods. The smell is somewhat like the fragrance of a 100% amped version of sitting in a Catholic confessional awaiting the slide of the grille window so the priest could hear your confession. At this point I must tell you a secret, my best friend and I would tell the priests our true sins (in their eyes), in graphic detail. So from about age 13 we would tell of our naughty forays into the world of youthful gay sex and then afterwards over lunch laugh at each others stories and the priests responses to our lascivious learnings. I am chuckling right now. Those poor sexually frustrated priests must have been thrilled by our exploits, HA HA HA!
Jubilation Over Fall Of Babylon Photo Stolen WikiCommons
Back to the fragrance, the herbs make Jubilation XXV’s woods seem green, as in not yet fully dried, and recently sawed. There is plenty of incense smoke and a honeyed sweetness that makes me lean in closer to my wrist for an extra sniff. A raspy sweet orange zest that has gone a bit far into the pith creating that weird creamy/bitter sensation. I love that so much of Duchaufour’s work is about the mixture of scents, not about single notes. What I get more than anything is a feeling of being elsewhere. Maybe some of the dusty, lonely cathedrals and churches in Europe. Their beauty now fading under centuries of grime and humanity, those once bright paintings now dimmed with age and neglect. The intricately carved wooden pews still having the hint of wood and a lovely patina created by countless bottoms rubbing them in their Sunday best. I smell dust, decay, incense and gilt. And guilt. I get a waxiness that reminds me of the candles you can burn to the various icons, idols and paintings of saints and as Katie Puckrik says, it could have been a gift from the three wise men to baby Jesus.
Photo Stolen Flickr
Jubilation XXV is beautiful, mesmerising and fabulously evocative while still being absolutely wearable. A wonderful creation awaiting anyone who would love to smell like antiquity brought bang up to date. Men only? No way! Anyone could wear this dense wooden beauty. I imagine on a woman it would be seductive and enticing, unexpected and intriguing. On a man it will smell like an expensive version of stuff he already has that cost about one quarter of the price.
What did you think of Jubilation XXV? Have you tried it? Are you frightened by the idea that it is for men?