Hey there Perfume Posse, today I am talking vintage again. Vintage Audace EdP by Rochas. I’ve had a large decant of it for some time now and wore it a few times when it arrived but as is so often the case other things arrived and it sat neglected in the background and as I’ve just noticed it has been leaking its beauty to the world and now there are only about 2ml of viscous amber liquid left in my decant bottle. AAAAARRGGHHH! Better wear the shit out of it for the next couple of days.
Audace by Marcel Rochas for Rochas 1936
Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Iris, jasmine, bergamot, violet
Heart: Carnation, rose
Base: Patchouli, oak moss, galbanum, amber, juniper, pine
I think the evaporation in by decant has made the juice left into ultra extrait. What I remember from my previous wears is thicker, richer, more luscious and altogether more interesting than my memory. That being said I am much further down the frag worm hole than back then, maybe my sniffer is becoming better able to enjoy stuff.
Great, gorgeous, perfumey opening that is like all the bergamot has been dried out and earthed by the iris. The crispness of carnation is already present in the opening as isa the galbanum. Even though Audace is now thick and rich it’s not overpowering in a size way but it definitely changes the air in the room. I sprayed myself and then went out to get a cuppa, on my return the room was delightfully scented and when I walked back in I could smell narcissus and jasmine clearly above the other ingredients; interesting.
My mate Scott has a name for rose fragrances with a load of interestingly earthy backing pieces, he calls them the Skanky Roses and I think that Audace definitely falls into this category through the heart. It’s a crisp, dry rose with the scent of cut stems and torn leaf all bundled up with delightful resins. Is there a hit of aldehydes too? I get the familiar oily sweetness but I could be dreaming. Also I feel like there’s a tobacco and honey wash which could be a sweeter, old fashioned patchouli/amber combo. Sheeesh, it smells good.
For all its vintage splendour Audace is really pretty and I could imagine it being totally considered a soft option in days gone by for someone who wasn’t really into statement frags. Today it is bolder by comparison to modern perfumery but still a very wearable and lovely.
Further reading: Now Smell This
You can find Audace on eBay and at some decanters.
Have you tried Audace? Is Rochas a house you’ve liked stuff from?
Portia xx
Hmm. This is sounding like my kinda thing – I don’t love Femme, though I got on better with the refo than the vinty, and Madame Rochas strikes me as being too dull, what with all the vetiver-musk. But lots of flowers? Narcissus? Yep. Might have to dig around on teh ‘bay and see what I can find.
Hiya Mals86,
Yes, this could very well be your thing. That is interesting that you find Madame Rochas too dull, she is operatic in her passions. The old parfums are still pretty reasonable on eBay, they are lovely.
Portia xx
Mmmm, Portia, this sounds lovely. Wasn’t familiar at all with Audace, so thanks for the eye-opening. Must try this ASAP. Love your vintage bent!
Hey Ann,
It seems all vintage lately doesn’t it? Rediscovering the oldies is fun.
Portia xx
I love vintage Femme and Madame — I haven’t tried Audace or Mystere! I’ll definitely need to check those out if I have the opportunity, and also try out the reformulated Femme. I do love me some skank!
Hi there Heidic,
Yes a bit of the sweaty armpit and crotch can liven up a fragrance no end. Rochas used to make some very well worn frags, current Femme is pretty sweaty. I like it a lot.
Portia xx
The only Rochas that I have tried is Femme. I remember not liking it too much. I have never heard of this one though. Sounds like it might be up my alley.
Hey Eldarwen22,
I have discovered a bunch of Rochas decants that I bought very early on and then ignored. La Rose is fabulous too. Very exciting rediscovery.
Portia xx
The review is yummy Portia! It’s a pity I don’t know Audace. I first heard of Rochas in the late seventies. My mother didn’t wear anything from Rochas but I knew from back then: Madame de Rochas, Femme de Rochas and my absolute favorite – Mystere de Rochas. I was very young and Madame and Femme were definitely not suitable for me and I dismissed them as perfumes for “elder women” (like my mother, lol). Mystere on the other hand was wonderful and I even had a FB as a teenager. Mystere is a true chypre. Back then when oakmoss was common it felt like a warm woody scent with a green touch, somewhere near Paloma Picasso. Today, when I dab on a bit from my vintage mini I only love the initial freshness. Later it becomes sooooo dry, like a dry white portwine, probably it’s the coriander. I think even Bandit is more wearable 😀 It is very special though and I wear it for fun when I’m meeting friends I know from back then. I also have a mini of Femme der Rochas and this is a completely different story. I did not like it before but now I find it amazing: the first burst is headache inducing, but then comes a warm plum in a bed of flowers which lasts forever and it only gets warmer and muskier. It is endlessly sensual and I think I would wear it more often today if there weren’t only some 3-4 ml left :-/
Hey Neva,
The good news is that the reformulated Femme is quite good, I like it at least as much as the vintage. Cumin instead of animal but a very nice readaptation.
Portia xx
This was another perfume that I spent my college grant on when it came out. I bought the parfum, unsniffed, because previously I had loved wearing Madame Rochas. I really enjoyed it, even though it was richer and earthier than the Madame and with, what my young nose thought, was a dose of lily of the valley. How I wish I had bought lots of bottles and put them into storage for the future!
Oh and I am not that old, I am talking about the re-issue in the 70s!
Ha Ha Ha Jillie. I guessed as much.
Portia xx
There is a bottle of this at a vintage recycle shop I know in Kamakura. You have made me want to go and buy it!
Heya handsome,
Go buy it. If you hate it I’ll buy it off you.
Portia xx
Wasn’t sure how old it was but shall definitely look into it!
That Bal Parfum in that bottle, in that satin, in that box……that is my best friend in winter time.
Is the dry down not D I V I N E? !
Possibly the best ever?
BaV Parfum is unbelieveable. I have collected a few of them now and have some different iterations of the other strengths. There is also a BaV soap in the collection. My mate Scott has the complete set, it’s HUGE!
Portia xx
I cannot even imagine how luxurious a Bal a Versailles soap must be. Truly sinful.
I’ve never tried this, or anything from Rochas, but I absolutely love the idea of it scenting the room enough that you could smell it upon your return! I’ve never experienced that – it sounds absolutely delightful.
Delightful is a perfect word for Audace Sun Mi.
It is.
Portia xx