Sweet and Fruity Fragrances

Hi Posse, Thought you might all be well over the talk of celebration, family, food and gifting. Let’s chat today about some of my favourite sweet and fruity beauties. This is such a reviled subsection of the perfumistas lexicon. I wanted to chat about ones I love for those that may be feeling excluded and mocked. Partly the problem is how most of us fell into the craving. Loving those comforting amber or vanilla rich fragrances, heavy tapestried incense and wood bombs. Many came seeking old loves of bombastic white florals and spicy armchair dreams of Asia and Africa. Suddenly the world of perfumery was offering up these almost caricaturish ultra sweet lollies. Our collective snobbish response was hate.

Especially loud were the voices of bloggers raised on the Amouage, Serge Lutens and vintage designer. We were not happy. Sweet and fruity seemed too easy, frivolous and lame. Well, look beyond that and I think you’ll find a wealth of beauty untapped that spans generations. As far back to Mure et Musc by L’Artisan Parfumeur in 1978.

Sweet and Fruity Fragrances

Sweet and Fruity Fragrances

Amor Amor by Cacharel

You looking for sweet and fruity? Amor Amor is like nothing I could ever have imagined myself wearing. Blackcurrant, orange, mandarin, grapefruit, bergamot  and apricot all combine with some flowers and a sweet vanilla amber in a fun, flirty puff of loveliness. One of my besties, Anna Maria, gave me my initial bottle and it embodies her sweet, sunny, loving personality so completely that I immediately fell head over heels. Wearing Amor Amor is like a hug when I’m down.

Bombay Bling! by Neela Vermeire Creations

Of the three fragrances my nose associates with Jin, Bombay Bling has the most significant events attached. He wore it for our wedding and often wears it as his holiday fragrance. Never underestimate the power of scent to create memories. Mango, litchi and blackcurrant are the fruits here but in my nose they all read as a succulent burst of pineapple. The base is quite masculine so you get these two stories with excellent progression. The initial couple of hours sillage is off the charts but never pugnacious.

Feminité du Bois by Serge Lutens

The original stewed fruit creation in 1992 for Shiseido, it returned to the Serge Lutens line in 2009. Though it is sweet and fruity Feminité du Bois is so much more. Stewed peaches and plums are spiced up with ginger, clove and cinnamon. Underneath this concoction runs a deep vein of vanilla heavy amber and sandalwood. I can’t even imagine how stunning this must have been in 1992 but it still smells so beautiful, even though the newest batches are slightly thinner and a little screechy.

L’Heure Convoiteé II by Cartier

Strawberry, though it doesn’t read as the living thing. This strawberry is a confectionary replication rather than the fruit itself. Carnation, iris and powder frame in cool arctic tones an aloof version of the sweet and fruity fragrance. When worn in warm climate it smells warm and cozy but wear L’Heure Convoiteé in the snow and it is an alpine experience. Also, by far the longest lasting of these choices.

La Colle Noire by Dior

A rose: jammy, fruity, fresh and pretty. La Colle Noire is about as far from noir as you could ever imagine a fragrance to be. This is a sweet and fruity morning stroll through the garden as the sun warms the roses. Blackcurrant, peach, raspberry and lemon give this fragrance a feel of the full bodied lushness when you stick your face into a freshly opened rose. A very faint darkness underlies the sweetness through the heart and base.

Mure et Musc Extreme by L’Artisan Parfumeur

This is the scent that started it all. Blackberry, red berries and citrus are brought together in a sweetness so pure it’s tart. Lip puckeringly so on open, like licking a fresh cut lime. Both mouth watering and astringent. It’s not long before that squealing sweetness mellows and softens. Still feels totally modern though it’s well into its 40s.

Trésor In Love by Lancome

Nectarine, pear, peach and citrus! Slightly aquatic fruit punch opening with the familiar sizzle of pink pepper berries and amorphous florals. Sweet and fruity drizzled with musks and a hint of woodsiness to hold it earthbound. Trésor In Love is not obnoxiously sugar laden and feels very nicely balanced. I had long loved Tresor Midnight Rose but recently my mate Scotty gave me this bottle and I find myself smitten.

Sweet and Fruity Fragrances

Surrender To Chance Fruity Perfumes Sampler has an excellent array of new and old sweet and fruity faves. A good place to start your fruity perfume journey.

OK, so now it’s time to confess your sweet and fruity guilty pleasures. Do you have some faves too?

 

BTW:
I know this time of year can be really brutal and taxing for everyone. Please be kind to yourselves and those around you. If you see depression looming have a plan. Even if it is to bookmark this page to give someone unrelated a call. (World Suicide, Crisis and Depression Hotlines).
Rope in a friend or colleague for a telephone, FaceTime, after family or without family cup of tea, anything. You’ll be surprised how many other people around you would LOVE to have an excuse to get away for some calm chatter for an hour or so.
Make sure you have something festive to do, even if it’s a hot chocolate and a cookie. If you can, go for a walk, spritz some perfume or clean out the fridge.
One small step towards something is a large step away from the black dog.

Whatever, wherever or however you do it, stay safe and warm.

You can be assured that some guy in Sydney, Australia is hoping to read and reply to your comments this week and next Thursday to hear what you did, didn’t, would have, could have, should have done over the week.

All the hugs,
Portia xx

  • Neva says:

    Lovely post, as always, dear Portia! So nice you added the note at the end.
    FdB is one of my all time favourites but the recent version is screechy and not so fruity anymore, such a pity. I would add Fazzolari’s Unsettled to the list, a creamy pineapple scent…and then there’s Toy Boy…oh yes and Bottega Veneta Eau de Velours, another marvelous plum.
    I wish you and Jin a wonderful holiday season and all the best for the New year! Hugs!

    • Portia says:

      Hey Neva!
      Eau de Velours was DCd here in Oz before I could grab a bottle. It was VERY high on the wishlist. So glad to see it mentioned.
      We wish you all the good stuff too.
      Portia xx

  • Tom says:

    Hi Portia!

    (Long time no comment) I always thought I’d disliked fruity or sweet scents despite the fact that the first sweet scent I really loved was the immortelle fest that was Annick Goutal Sables, which I discovered in the early 80s at Bergdorfs when I was in Utero.

    Some of the others that I like and own are Uncle Serge’s Mandarine Mandarin, with it’s combo of fresh orange, canned ones in syrup and g-d help me, celery. Or Rahat Loukoum, which is like the delicious eponymous candy being given as a present to you by an even more delicious Valentino type who had been riding a while to get there. Yum. Feminite de Bois I have a bottle of that I scored in a shop in little Tokyo years ago and it’s delicious, as are a few others of SL’s stewed fruit scents. The funny thing is that I always used to wear them in our winter because I thought they would throttle me in summer, but the hot weather really makes them sing in the best way.

    Happy Holidays to all the Posse crew!
    Tom

    • Portia says:

      Hey Tom! What a fabulous bnd festive surprise. So nice to see you here. We miss you.
      As usual your choices are super cool kid.
      Sables is a great fave of mine also. It was reformed a few years ago and I have this less toxically intense version. They added just enough space between the notes that I feel uplifted by its sweet and feral beauty.
      Hope you are doing well buddy. USA 2023, if we can.
      Portia xx

    • Maya says:

      Hi Tom. Happy holidays!

    • rosarita says:

      Hi, Tom, nice to see you! Hope you are doing well.

  • Kathleen says:

    Thank you for the reminder to appreciate the sweet and fruity, not my first choice in perfume however some beauties nonetheless. I love Tresor in Love when I sniffed it in the past, I may need to find a bottle.
    Your reminder for all to be kind to ourselves and find avenues for self-care is very much appreciated. Bless your kind and generous soul Portia. I appreciate your big heart and sharing your thoughts with us each week. Your posts are a highlight in my email inbox each week.
    Happy New Year to you, Jin and your pups. xoxo

    • Portia says:

      Thanks Kathleen,
      So nice to see you whenever you comment.
      Merry everything and a safe, healthy 2022.
      Jin and the doggies are doing great, Paris just gave you a tail wave.
      Portia xx

  • Maggiecat says:

    You’ve all reminded me that I used to love Courtesan – Ill have to see if I can track some down! Happy Christmas to all. May the new year bring you all especially good things.

  • AnnieA says:

    Went to have a look for s’n’f perfumes. Let’s see… there’s Lancome Oud Bouquet, which ends up like a fancy version of Prada Candy. I also just bought some body spray of Ariana Grande Cloud when I was at the drugstore today, literally cheap&cheerful.

    Should I have put many spritzes of them both on separate arms? Perhaps not, as I’m feeling like I’ve eaten a box of chocolates! Well, this IS the season of indulgence…

    All the best to everyone,

  • Musette says:

    Hey, babysnakes! Happy Hollerdays!!! You have my (and Jin’s) beloved BBling on here – and all is right with the world! I also love Arielle Shoshona’s Saturday perfume (rhubarb) which always reminds me of the Farmer’s Market scene in ‘Something’s Gotta Give’ with Keanu and Frances McDormand and Maroon 5 hollering on the soundtrack!

    xoxoxoxoA

    • Musette says:

      yikes! Not rhubarb – PASSIONFRUIT!!!

      Glad I read MMKinPA’s comment, else I would’ve looked a right lima bean!
      (blushing – again!)

      xoxoxo

      • Portia says:

        HA! We all make those mistakes Musette.
        You weren’t all the way wrong though, there is definitely rhubarb in Saturday.
        Merry Christmas beautiful.
        Portia x

  • VerbenaLuvvr says:

    Thank you Portia for this post! A good chunk of my collection is sweet gourmand fruits, and I do often feel outside “the circle”. My faves of the sweet fruits and berries (beyond citruses and figs, that’s a whole other discussion!) are 4160 Tuesdays Rhubarb & Custard, Hilde Soliani Una Tira L’Altra (cherry), Nobile 1942 La Danza delle Libellule (apple), The Vagabond Prince Enchanted Forest (blackberry), Tocca Guilietta (green apple), and Nina Ricci Bella (rhubarb). Merry Christmas to you and Jin!

    • Portia says:

      Hey VerbenaLuvvr,
      Come in from the cold and spritz mightily. Today you and the sweet fruits are front and centre.
      What a fabulous list. I’ll just add a couple to my sample list eh?
      Portia xx

  • Maya says:

    I still very much like Fath de Fath ’93. I recently bought several partially used perfume bottles, which included Badgley Mischka in the original bottle. It is a fruity chypre and is also lovely.
    I hope everyone has a great and healthy holiday!

  • Marjo says:

    Thank you very much for the supportive message at the end. It was just what I needed.

    I love Féminité Du Bois. It’s one of my favorites, and it really was stunning in 1992.
    Mûre er Musc, Lost Cherry and Plum Japonais also give me comfort in these strange times.

    I wish you and all your loved ones peaceful and healthy holidays.

    • Musette says:

      Agreed on the supportive message! Whenever I feel my black dog peeking out of that doghouse I go help someone else who may be in even direr straits – and it helps, a LOT!

      xoxoxo

    • Portia says:

      Hey Margo, you’re welcome.
      YAY! You can come sit by me in our fruity sweet glory any day.

      Thanks.
      Stay safe & well,
      See you on the other side for a post apoca-christmas debriefing.
      Portia xx

  • Jennifer S says:

    Fruity scents are among my least sampled category but I do have Feminite du Bois and while I don’t dislike it, I think I’ve never even given it a fair chance honestly. Should probably give it another go!
    I remember at one time giving my daughter a small red, apple shaped bottle of Nina Ricci which she quite liked and smelled really good on her!
    Happy, safe, healthy Holidays to you and Jin!!

    Thank you for adding that important, caring message at the end.

    • Portia says:

      Hi JenniferS,
      OMG! Please wear your FdB sample in the near future. I reckon you might fall madly in love.
      Those Nina Ricci apple bottles are beautiful. Last year she did a flanker (name escapes me) that was SO GOOD!
      Thank you.
      Hope your holidays are all that and more.
      Portia xx

  • Koyel says:

    Portia, thank you for that note at the end <3

    I’ve never really thought of Feminite du Bois as a fruity fragrance! It’s one of my favorites. I quite like YSL Parisienne, with all those blackberries. And Guerlain LPRN Black Perfecto (my wedding perfume!) and TF Lost Cherry both have fantastic cherry notes in them 🙂 None of these pleasures are guilty, though!

  • Teresa says:

    Lovely inspiring article! And the addition of the note at the end is kind and supportive and just what some of us need right now. Thank you!

  • MMKinPA says:

    You have written often about Amor Amor – I really should try it. I have tried Bombay Bling, Mure et Musc and Feminite du Bois, excellent fruities. Arielle Shoshana Saturday is passion fruit fun, and I have some excellent fruity scents from DSH (August Picnic 1976 is rhubarb and strawberries). Have a wonderful restful Christmas.

  • Cassieflower says:

    I’m no snob when it comes to sweet and fruity. And I love a few of those you’ve mentioned (not familiar with the Dior or Tresor). I’ll add Le Parfum de Therese, Worth Courtesan, Ananas Fizz (gone, but why?) and Shay & Blue White Peaches. I could think of many more but you get the picture. They can be very cheery on a dark and dreary day. Hope your Christmas with the lovely Jin is calm and restful, and filled with the aroma of roasting pork.

  • March says:

    What a LOVELY post, Portia! I am here in Maine, seeing my kids a little bit (they are all working a lot though) and nervous about Omicron. Staying in an AirBnb and frankly a little lonely … winter here is rough. But I’m warm and safe and well. Love and happy holidays to you. If I had Mure et Musc here with me I’d spray it on! Xo

    • Portia says:

      Hey March!
      YAY! For being where the kids are. BOO for them being busy and you a bit lonely.
      Warm, safe and well is a pretty good start. I hope the next few days gives you oodles of fun family time.
      First year of everything different is strange and hard. You are a tough cookie and i love you. Stay safe & well.
      Portia xx

  • Jo Ann says:

    Hi Portia, wishing you a Merry week! Loved this article. During Covid, I’ve found fruit, sweet and vanilla scents giving me comfort. And, being retired allows me to wear what I want including pastry like scent.

  • cinnamon says:

    Happy almost Xmas? My vote for the best thing to do to combat anxiety and depression this time of year is to walk. It makes you breathe and I think that can be helpful. But also definitely vent. This is such a weird time and made weirder in the past few years by the virus.

    Fruity stuff. In addition to Bombay Bling, which I adore, I’d add Malle Le Parfum de Therese with that melon note (the only melon note I know of that feels grown up and refined).

    Picking up the last food bits today and tomorrow. We’ve already started on the brownies and macaroons. I tend to feel really stressed by this type of cooking but this year somehow I’ve managed to slough that off. What will be. It will all get done. We’ve just passed the winter solstice and the days are already getting ever so slightly longer. Thank you, Mother Nature.

    • Portia says:

      Good advice Cinnamon, a brisk (or even meandering) walk is good for everything.
      OMG! How could I forget LPdT!! Sensational.

      Right now our house smells of Jin’s Roast Pork & Crackling.
      Portia xx

  • Alityke says:

    Portia, you are the sparkle on the angel on the top of the tree, thank you for the final paragraphs ?

    I remember Escada’s Lemon Chiffon & the sensation it caused! Who could have known the Amazonian fruity floral “me too’s” which would walk it its magnificent footsteps?

    My favourite sweet & fruities in winter are a teeny bit cheaty but EL Amber Ylang Ylang is toffee sweet, amber & banana. Hated by Sanchez & Turin, who called it bananas foster & d/ced by EL, it now demands three figure sums on eBay.
    Other sweet, fruity delights are current Diorella, she’s now lost her spine & is the ultimate in sour/sweet jelly. Peach & bergamot flavour at that!
    Lots of fruity, sweet Lutens so I’ll see your FdB & raise you Arabie. All the sweet, stoned fruit, a full cone of molasses sugar & a bazaar of sweet & savoury spices. More the recipe for the ultimate tagine or pastilla. Delicious!

    May all the Posse who do so have a peaceful & safe celebration. Here is hoping C-19 will allow the world recovery & normalisation in 2022

    • Portia says:

      Hiya Alityke,
      Some of those Escada sweet frags were SO GOOD! I know the perfume elite sneered but I bloody loved them.
      Arabie is another lovely sweet fruity Lutens, his range is speckled beautifully with them.
      Portia xx

      • rosarita says:

        I’ll ask a question…what is your favorite Escada fruity scent? Every year, in late spring/early summer, I crave a sweet fruity fun scent and I am not familiar with Escada.