Hey Posse. Essence Milan has been happening again. Jin and I went along way back in the dark ages . Atelier des Ors was one of the brands that really stood out at the time. They were new, had a New Zealander as their chief marketer, were doing these fabulous bottles with gold flake inside and there was a buzz. Serendipitously I came across Nick Gilbert and Pia Long while at the stand and we sniffed the range together. They were so beautifully curated/created and we were in raptures over the more showy of the line. A couple were missed . Well not missed exactly. They just didn’t sing in that room with all the smell, noise, excitement, craziness. Rose Omeyyade completely passed me by, I passed it by.
A manufacturers sample has surfaced while doing the New Idea 2023 and I’m so surprised. Wear it with me and we can rediscover it together.
Rose Omeyyade by Atelier des Ors
Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Pink Pepper, Rose buds, Raspberry
Heart: Patchouli, Guaiac wood, Brown Sugar Accord
Base: Sandalwood, Oudh, Amber
The opening is all oudh, slightly medicinal. It lasts a split second and then, emerging like Venus, a jammy rose appears. It really feels like it is rising from the depths. The oudh never leaves but it is subsumed. As the fragrance heads towards the heart the rose become candied. Not like the masses of fizzy, fairy floss cheapies. No, this is like they’ve taken rose petals and dipped them in rose sugar crystals. There still exists within the fragrance that bitter bite that rose petals have, no matter how jammy the scent. It’s a really interesting way to treat rose. I’m brought back to my arm to sniff and see if my thoughts are real.
The patchouli is modern, not clean exactly but most of its earthiness has been shorn away. As is works with the oudh I find myself thinking that this is a very sophisticated version of Juliette Has a Gun Midnight Oud. The story is similar but Atelier des Ors does it in a refined way, like a CHANEL reimagining of the trope. The base is still vibrant and interesting, not so much amber but it bolsters the oudh/patchouli/rose combo beautifully till dry down.
Perfumer Marie Salamagne has worked with so many brands and has a really broad oeuvre. From Guerlain Aqua Allegorias,, Mugler Alien, Penhaligon’s Constantinople to Westwood Let It Rock and YSL Black Opium.
Surrender To Chance has samples
I really thought my collection. had all the roses, obviously now I’m craving one more.
Do you think you could Rose Omeyyade?
Rose Omeyyade by Atelier des Ors sounds beautiful. I had sampled Lune Feline which I adored, didn’t ever buy a full bottle though as I found the price point steep. However, the bottles are stunning with the design and gold flecks. I adore Rose scents and even though not an oud fan, this sounds delicious. I am currently sampling the original YSL Paris from STC, a scent memory from teenage years when I wore it. Bliss! xoxo
Yes, the AdOs are pricey. Lune Feline is amazing.
YAY for reminding old loves. My Mum wore Paris for a few years as her daytime scent quite late in life, so many happy memories. I bet you smelled amazing in it as a teen. Maybe Mum was trying to recapture her youth with it.
hmmm… well, I’m thinking this is probably not a Me Rose…but it sounds like a winner, nonetheless, sophisticated and well-curated. That little ‘bite’ is always welcome!
If you see the brand I think there will be at least a couple of winners in their line up for you Musette. Give them a whirl.
Beautiful review, Portia.
Thank you DinaC,
I love Rose Omeyyad and own it. Not much of an oud fan but I do love rose and patchouli, thankfully the oud note is not too strong and is well blended.
I love that the oudh is less relevant in your wearing. Makes me want to go and sniff it again. Sadly I thunked the sample and will have to wait for more.
Rose Omeyyade was on my radar quite a while ago and then it somehow got forgotten, not the first time that has happened. Will add it in next time I order samples from a place that carries it. I’m a fan of roses.
This may just be a perfect fit for you Maya.
I think this sounds lovely, although probably not “me” — doesn’t have to be for me to be fabulous, though! I love that bite within rose scents, makes it feel so true.
Nope. Fabulous things don’t always suit. In fact, they’re probably less likely to in the grand scheme. Maybe that’s why, when we find the right fit of slightly off kilter, we grab it with both hands March.
Well I am definitely going to hit up StC for a sample..
I hope you like it Tom.