Hey Posse. Essence Milan has been happening again. Jin and I went along way back in the dark ages . Atelier des Ors was one of the brands that really stood out at the time. They were new, had a New Zealander as their chief marketer, were doing these fabulous bottles with gold flake inside and there was a buzz. Serendipitously I came across Nick Gilbert and Pia Long while at the stand and we sniffed the range together. They were so beautifully curated/created and we were in raptures over the more showy of the line. A couple were missed . Well not missed exactly. They just didn’t sing in that room with all the smell, noise, excitement, craziness. Rose Omeyyade completely passed me by, I passed it by.
A manufacturers sample has surfaced while doing the New Idea 2023 and I’m so surprised. Wear it with me and we can rediscover it together.
Rose Omeyyade by Atelier des Ors
Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Pink Pepper, Rose buds, Raspberry
Heart: Patchouli, Guaiac wood, Brown Sugar Accord
Base: Sandalwood, Oudh, Amber
The opening is all oudh, slightly medicinal. It lasts a split second and then, emerging like Venus, a jammy rose appears. It really feels like it is rising from the depths. The oudh never leaves but it is subsumed. As the fragrance heads towards the heart the rose become candied. Not like the masses of fizzy, fairy floss cheapies. No, this is like they’ve taken rose petals and dipped them in rose sugar crystals. There still exists within the fragrance that bitter bite that rose petals have, no matter how jammy the scent. It’s a really interesting way to treat rose. I’m brought back to my arm to sniff and see if my thoughts are real.
The patchouli is modern, not clean exactly but most of its earthiness has been shorn away. As is works with the oudh I find myself thinking that this is a very sophisticated version of Juliette Has a Gun Midnight Oud. The story is similar but Atelier des Ors does it in a refined way, like a CHANEL reimagining of the trope. The base is still vibrant and interesting, not so much amber but it bolsters the oudh/patchouli/rose combo beautifully till dry down.
Perfumer Marie Salamagne has worked with so many brands and has a really broad oeuvre. From Guerlain Aqua Allegorias,, Mugler Alien, Penhaligon’s Constantinople to Westwood Let It Rock and YSL Black Opium.
Surrender To Chance has samples
I really thought my collection. had all the roses, obviously now I’m craving one more.
Do you think you could Rose Omeyyade?