Hi Perfume Posse, Un Bois Vanille is one of my favourite Serge Lutens fragrances from way back in 2003. It’s one that does get much perfumista love. Maybe because it’s too easy, comfortable, warm and wearable? A Christopher Sheldrake creation. It feels like he is the soul of the Lutens brand.
I’m thinking you all might like a post about a vanilla scent to keep you warm in the northern hemisphere winter.
Un Bois Vanille by Serge Lutens 2003
Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Beeswax, Bitter almond, Gaiac wood, Caramelized benzoin, Coconut milk, Sandalwood, Licorice, Tonka bean, Vanilla absolute
My current bottle of Un Bois Vanille is one of the older export bottles. You can see by the Palais Rayale stamp at the bottom of the beige label on the bottle. It then changes to an SL logo (similar to the new bottles logo) and now there’s a brand new bottle and black label as pictured at the top. There is some difference in the scents but that could be due to reformulations or age and oxygenation. The difference is only noticeable if you are changing bottles or wearing them side by side. Don’t sweat it, the modern iteration is still very beautiful.
How does it smell? Sweet, thick and resinous vanilla straight from the bakery, lightly dusted in roasted coconut and kept from being a purely crunchy caramel by the bitter almond and woods. It sounds very heavy, and it is dense, but manages to remain floaty and aerated. A fully fragrant vanilla but not a powerhouse, especially after the first 30 minutes where the whole fragrance settles into a warm, sweet, cozy vanilla-centric beauty. Every time I wear Un Bois Vanille I also get a hit of hot milky coffee that isn’t mentioned anywhere in the rotes, maybe it’s just me.
Perfect on both sexes, and applied sparingly I think it could even manage office appropriate. For this events that fragrant projection is important then an extra spritz or two will have you glowing for the whole event and well into the next morning. Dry down is as gorgeous as the opening, a slightly dark vanilla that has headed towards the animalic and honeyed. Freaking delicious.
Patty had this to say in her Serge Lutens Comprehensive:
- Un Bois Vanille (2003) – My gateway vanilla. Up until this, my experience with vanilla was those really heavy ones everyone loved in the late ’90s and early 2000s. Wretched, overpowering things. Not this, this is vanilla, but softer, it lets you relax into it instead of smothering you with a vanilla pillow. I still love it.
Surrender To Chance has samples
Are you an Un Bois Vanille fan? Is there a vanilla, or two, that you like better?
Portia also writes for Australian Perfume Junkies