Hiya Posse, I bought a sample of Naomi Goodsir Corpus Equus as soon as it was in stock at Surrender To Chance, early 2022. It sat there while I was trying all the other stuff because I was so excited about a new Bertrand Duchafour collaboration with Naomi, the last one being in their initial three perfumes Or du Serail. SO EXCITING!
I have heard that BD is no longer freelance and happily enslaved to a company. Don’t quote me, and I may be wrong, but I think it’s Puig. It will be very interesting to see where this takes him and his style.
From Naomi Goodsir site: A gallant steed, noble blood, broody, spirited, a wild ride. (Sounds like some men I may have known)
Corpus Equus by Naomi Goodsir
Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Smoked wood, Leather, Birch, Amber, Frankincense, Musk, Patchouli, Rose, Cedar
Dark, devilishly smoky open. Burning bacon on a campfire with a side order of singed hair and toe jam. Sounds disgusting but Corpus Equus is meditative and transportive. Per fumé! Positively tribal and smelling like I imagine the gates to hell would smell. Both terrifying and strangely alluring. Like making bad choices as vengeance against trauma. If you’ve ever read Terry Pratchett DiskWorld novels then this is the smell of the king under the hill.
So theatrics over, let’s talk Corpus Equus for realz.
Very smoky opening, so birchy. It is like a BarBQ or bonfire and as that initial WOW changes there is some really animalic notes. I’m surprised that oudh is not noted. I’m getting that medicinal meets unwashed aged human hair and over blow dried hair thing that oudh does so well. It’s not blockbuster, beast mode size but very fragrant. I wore Corpus Equus to take a nap yesterday and it swirled me to sleep so quickly. My mind just followed it down into inky, dreamless, darkness.
The heart seems to become the fragrance that I associate in my mind with Corpus Equus. It’s a surprisingly beautifully blended melange where all are equal parts and none rise to notice. Still smoky and leathery, I know patchouli is doing some heave lifting but unless I’m nose to hand it melds seamlessly. The fragrance remains fairly linear till the next phase.
Heading towards dry down there is a definite diminution of scent and it’s like a lot of the starring players have bowed out. It leaves a leathery amber with wisps of smoke. So good.
Unisex but leaning towards traditional modern masculine. Projection and longevity are excellent.
Have you, or would you try, Corpus Equus?
Portia xx
HOLY SNAKES AND CABBAGE!!! This sounds both amazing and terrifying all at the same time! I am gonna order a sample, will probably be put off by it – but your description does sound like a lot of men I have known – and maybe a man I know right the heck now 😉
I tried it and it was too much man for me. I do like smoke and leather in small doses but this was above my high water mark.
I can well believe that TaraC. It’s a lot.
Portia xx
“A gallant steed, noble blood, broody, spirited, a wild ride. (Sounds like some men I may have known)” HAHAHAHA love it. Me too, hon! This doesn’t sound like a thing I need to own, but it does sound like something I need to try! I love a good slap of birch tar and funk.
LOL! Omg, yes. I want to try this, too!
It’s not one for me, but I love your beautiful description, Portia. Cheers!
Thanks Dina,
Portia xx
Sounds a bit “curate’s egg” to me. There will be parts I love & others will be a hard no.
The opening smells like LADDM does to me. Smoked kippers on cooked on the barby. I couldn’t get past that, again my perfumista pin is challenged by scrubbing LADDM.
HA HA HA HA HA! So funny Alityke. LADDM and Eau d’Epices were my first two proper niche buys.
Portia xx
Oooh, sign me up!
HA! I’ll consider you signed Tom.
Portia xx
Hmmm. I love the smell of birch tar. But based on your description I’m not sure whether I want to sample this. On a different note, it would be very interesting indeed if Duchaufour has landed at Puig, given that company owns l’Artisan and Penhaligon (which offered some of IMHO his most interesting stuff).
I wonder if this might be your jam Cinnamon. It’s certainly tapestried enough to lure you in.
Yeah, I can’t remember where I heard that whisper about BD. Yeah, but Puig also own a few others that could do with his excellent perfumers ability. I wonder if he just wants some security for a while?
Portia xx
It appears the line is available at a shop in London. Will make a note.
OHHHH! Can’t wait to read what you think Cinnamon. Which shop?
Portia xx
Bloom Perfumery. It’s near Covent Garden.
Bravo on this post. I did have a surprised laugh at your aside – “Sounds like some men I may have known”. Ditto on that. You also got me with “making bad choices as vengeance against trauma.” Did that too. I probably wouldn’t like Corpus Equus but would definitely try it based on this post.
YAY for a surprised laughed Maya and also glad to find common resonance in past mistakes.
If you ever do try it I’d love to hear what you think.
Portia xx