Heya Posse. Cuir Intense! Everything with cuir in it right now sounds like a coming of age gay sports series. Queer Intense: the story of two top performing college boys from opposing Universities that find love amongst the climbing/rowing/football/athletics gear. It’s an eye opening look into how normal, divisive and frustrating being an LGBTQIA+ sports star in love can be. Sorry, I digress.
The Absolus Allegoria are the 2024 bottles that took over from the Les Absolus d’Orient after they ran alongside and then replaced the Les Déserts d’Orient. It’s been a whirlwind ride since 2012 and yes, you can all be forgiven for being totally bamboozled. They are coloured glass redefinitions of the metal Les Absolus d’Orient style bottles. So beautiful. I’m pathetic, and want them ALL! Completionist sickness warning. I’m guessing this is a reissue the 2019 juice but it may have had a little freshen up, most years they need to do a little fiddling to keep it same.
Cuir Intense by Guerlain Absolus Allegoria 2024
Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Osmanthus, Ylang-ylang
Heart: Leather, Musk
Base: Sandalwood, Tobacco, Virginia cedar
I’m all in for the osmanthus version of leather. Of course, my favourite is Rahele by Neela Vermeire Creations. It was my wedding scent and now tends to be my choice for special moments, and everyday. It fits most moods. Here’s the thing though, it’s not a back straightening suit of armor. If I ever need the same configuration but less go with the flow and more this is unacceptable so do it right, right now; then it’s Cuir Intense all the way.
Opening is a hefty, birch rich leather softened and mellowed by yellow florals. It darker and inkier than Rahele. More intense and much more insistent that it be noticed. Beautiful leather pieces in a Spanish market with the breath and body smells of humanity. There’s a dustiness and that strange rich sweetness of new leather. Cuir Intense could be from another era but is also modern, niche smelling. Not the lazy, million reproductions of amber woods scratchiness. Here we are offered something tough but refined.
The early wear is full and very diffusive. Lovely, but what actually floats my boat here is the dry down. A soft waft of creamy leather with still the white/yellow floral undertow of osmanthus.
I’m not even sure where this gorgeous mini came from. It’s bloody adorable. Maybe with a Guerlain purchase or from the Surrender To Chance miscellaneous tab? I do love to have a trawl through the offerings there.
Cuir Intense is traditional modern masculine leaning but wearable for all. I feel like in the 1920/30s this would have been aimed at the women. It even has a little roughed up nod to Tabac Blond by Caron. Times change, tastes change, etc BUT good smelling fragrances are good no matter when.
Tom tried some Les Absolus and posted here.
Are you a leather lover? Does Cuir Intense sound like a win?
Portia xx
This sounds sooo good! I’d love to give this a try. And the bottle is gorgeous.
AGREED Pam! I love the new glass bottle version of it. So luxurious.
Portia xx
You bet I’d like to try the Cuir Intense! One day there will osmanthus-forward scent to call my own, and I like leather. Whatever Guerlain’s currently calling them, they’re a solid line and worth a sniff.
Today I am wearing Tobacco Honey. It’s a 10 ml mini, bonus from last summer’s Flacon Sac purchase – they must have given me at least 20 ml of in various samples, etc. It’s nice, but the wee bottle will have to last me, as I don’t have a spare $500 lying around…
Hey there AnnieA,
Yeah, Guerlain have priced me out of the market in many of their ranges.
That is incredibly generous of them. 20ml GWP is a real rarity now.
Portia x
This is getting my lemming instincts going..
HA! Tom, you would smell drop dead gorgeous in Cuir Intense.
Portia x
Cuir Intense might be too leathery for me. I like leathers on the softer side and don’t go out of my way looking for them, but am always up for checking out something new or different. It’s how I found some of my favorite scents. It’s one of the many fun things about perfume.
Hey Maya,
I’ve been trying to work out where Cuir Intense sits on the leather line and maybe stronger than Cabochard but softer than Cuir Ottoman.
Portia x
Portia,
I like soft leather scents like Hermes Cuir d’Ange, Bottega Veneta, Jolie Madame, Penhaligons Iris Prima, and Chanel Cuir de Russie (the strongest one in my collection). This Guerlain would fall outside my parameters, but it does sound like a beautiful masculine. Thanks for the review!
Hey DinaC,
Yeah, I get that. Dry down may skirt the edges of your taste but the first few minutes would probably blow the back of your head clear off.
Portia x
I’m definitely a (softer) leather lover and this sounds incredible!
But not as incredible as YOU!
I grabbed a leather belt, strapped myself in to keep from falling out of the chair, I was laughing that hard!
Ehat a delicious, delightful post!! Thank you!!!
Same here! After a “huh?” moment, I could not stop laughing!!! That was great, Portia!
Thanks Maya! My work here is done for the day. Making you laugh is good.
Portia xx
Musette, so glad you liked the post. This makes me really happy.
HUG
Portia xx
Another leather lover here. Especially the Osmanthus sueded sub genre.
I haven’t tried any of these Guerlains other than Santal Royale. Dunno why other than Guerlain counters are so full of wonderful toys to play with
This is a truth Alityke. Going to a fully stocked Guerlain counter is overwhelming. Even at our largest counter in Oz they don’t stock the full range so we have a curated offering that is much easier to manage.
Portia xx
I really enjoyed your digression. I definitely don’t watch enough telly.
The notes on this sound sublime. The next time I’m in London will have a go.
As to leather, I go on enough about Dark Lord. I guess the only other thing I have that mimics is Le Labo Patchouli whatever number. Actually I might put that on today. To cut through yet more rain.
Sorry it’s still raining on your parade Cinnamon,
HA! Digression. Everything sounds like a synonym for Heated Rivalry right now.
Dark Lord. Patchouli 28. Good, hefty stuff to storm through the deluge.
Portia xx
I love that little bottle! And the big bottles as well … I sold a bunch of my AAs on years ago and I’ve regretted it ever since. D:
GAH! Do you remember which AAs March?
Portia xx