Heya Posse. Cuir Intense! Everything with cuir in it right now sounds like a coming of age gay sports series. Queer Intense: the story of two top performing college boys from opposing Universities that find love amongst the climbing/rowing/football/athletics gear. It’s an eye opening look into how normal, divisive and frustrating being an LGBTQIA+ sports star in love can be. Sorry, I digress.
The Absolus Allegoria are the 2024 bottles that took over from the Les Absolus d’Orient after they ran alongside and then replaced the Les Déserts d’Orient. It’s been a whirlwind ride since 2012 and yes, you can all be forgiven for being totally bamboozled. They are coloured glass redefinitions of the metal Les Absolus d’Orient style bottles. So beautiful. I’m pathetic, and want them ALL! Completionist sickness warning. I’m guessing this is a reissue the 2019 juice but it may have had a little freshen up, most years they need to do a little fiddling to keep it same.
Cuir Intense by Guerlain Absolus Allegoria 2024
Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Osmanthus, Ylang-ylang
Heart: Leather, Musk
Base: Sandalwood, Tobacco, Virginia cedar
I’m all in for the osmanthus version of leather. Of course, my favourite is Rahele by Neela Vermeire Creations. It was my wedding scent and now tends to be my choice for special moments, and everyday. It fits most moods. Here’s the thing though, it’s not a back straightening suit of armor. If I ever need the same configuration but less go with the flow and more this is unacceptable so do it right, right now; then it’s Cuir Intense all the way.
Opening is a hefty, birch rich leather softened and mellowed by yellow florals. It darker and inkier than Rahele. More intense and much more insistent that it be noticed. Beautiful leather pieces in a Spanish market with the breath and body smells of humanity. There’s a dustiness and that strange rich sweetness of new leather. Cuir Intense could be from another era but is also modern, niche smelling. Not the lazy, million reproductions of amber woods scratchiness. Here we are offered something tough but refined.
The early wear is full and very diffusive. Lovely, but what actually floats my boat here is the dry down. A soft waft of creamy leather with still the white/yellow floral undertow of osmanthus.
I’m not even sure where this gorgeous mini came from. It’s bloody adorable. Maybe with a Guerlain purchase or from the Surrender To Chance miscellaneous tab? I do love to have a trawl through the offerings there.
Cuir Intense is traditional modern masculine leaning but wearable for all. I feel like in the 1920/30s this would have been aimed at the women. It even has a little roughed up nod to Tabac Blond by Caron. Times change, tastes change, etc BUT good smelling fragrances are good no matter when.
Tom tried some Les Absolus and posted here.
Are you a leather lover? Does Cuir Intense sound like a win?
Portia xx
I really enjoyed your digression. I definitely don’t watch enough telly.
The notes on this sound sublime. The next time I’m in London will have a go.
As to leather, I go on enough about Dark Lord. I guess the only other thing I have that mimics is Le Labo Patchouli whatever number. Actually I might put that on today. To cut through yet more rain.
I love that little bottle! And the big bottles as well … I sold a bunch of my AAs on years ago and I’ve regretted it ever since. D: